Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain

Picture: Christian G.E. and Annette Schiller in a Tapas Bar

As part of the 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference, My wife Annette and I spent a couple of days in Logroño in La Rioja, which has an amazing Tapas Bar scene.

See:
The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja

Let me quote Norman Miller (The Guardian, Saturday 1 August 2009): While tapas are ubiquitous in Spain, the question of who serves up the best is divisive. Granada, the spiritual home of the tapa, has a good shout, and it's also one of the few places where they are still offered free with a drink. Seville probably has the most atmospheric old bars, but not the best tapas, while San Sebastian's elaborate pintxos, as they're called in Basque, are delicious works of art.

But my vote goes to Logroño, the untouristy capital of La Rioja, for the sheer concentration of tapas bars in its medieval old town.

Pictures: Logroño in La Rioja

Norman Miller goes on: Almost 50 are crammed into a single block about the size of four tennis courts. I counted 24 in 100 steps along Calle del Laurel, 13 in 50 paces along Travesía del Laurel. Calle San Agustin and Calle Albornoz complete the circuit with a dozen more. Hemingway treated his taste buds here during his Iberian travels, while King Juan Carlos has given them his royal seal of approval.

This concentration grew from old wine shops (envas) that once sold Rioja's wine in these narrow medieval streets. The wine business has now shifted to nearby Haro, whose historic centre has a tiny tapas circuit of its own known as "The Horseshoe".

Pictures: The Tapas Bars of Logroño in La Rioja

With so many bars in so little space you might expect fierce competition, but Logroño, on the river Ebro and a stop-off point for pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela, has worked out a simple solution - each bar specialises in just two or three dishes. "There are no rivals here," says Lourdes Sainz, as I start a lunchtime progress along Travesia del Laurel at her brightly-coloured Bar Lorenzo, mingling with blokes on a booze-and-a-bite warm-up for a long Spanish lunch.

Pictures: The Tapas Bars of Logroño in La Rioja

Wendy Crispell, who also participated in the 2013 Digital Wine Communication Conference, shared my enthusiasm for the Tapas Bars in Logroño and has written about them on her blog. Here are 4 Tapas bars she visited and which she liked very much. You may also want to check the official website of Calle Laurel.

Pulpería La Universidad. Founded in 1978 this is the place to enjoy octopus, in MANY forms! From the most incredibly tender fried version to a simple but deadly preparation Galician style, dressed simply with olive oil and paprika. Also enjoy a Galician wine served in porcelain dishes, a tradition of the region.

Donosti. This brightly lit counter style spot is THE place to stop for foie! Glazed with a sweet violet jam and washed down with a local cider or wine. You will be tempted to order two but save room for their potato and ham croquettes as well. Slamming good!

Angel Bar. Who would think 3 stacked mushrooms, doused in a garlic butter and topped with a single shrimp could taste sooooo good? Simplicity rules. This is said to be a secret recipe passed down from Angel Villanueva who opened this gem in 1960. Today his daughter and grandson proudly grill their family secret in view of customers enjoying wines poured from over 20 local vineyards.

Meson del Abuelo. This comfy spot is packed with locals eating both at the counter and in a cozy dining room serving steak, chops and seafood. My pick here is the chorizo cooked down with cider, with a bit of the same to wash it down with! A list of over 30 different Spanish wines is offered at an extremely reasonable price.

Schiller’s Favorites

This posting is part of the Schiller’s favorites series.

Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France 

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France

Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, UK

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary

Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

schiller-wine: Related Posting (DWCC 2013)

The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja

Rioja, Portugal, Austria, Italy, Turkey …. Rioja – EWBC 2013 Back in Spain

#DWCC : Comunicatore Digitale della settimana – Wine Blogger of the Week: Christian Schiller

Visiting a Stunning Winery: Bodegas Baigorri in Rioja, Spain

Bodegas Baigorri (Rioja, Spain) Wine Blog Posting Contest .... and the Winner is: Christian Schiller from schiller-wine

A Winery, a Foundation and a Museum: Dinastía Vivanco – Tasting, Tapas and a Tour with Santiago and Rafael Vivanco, Rioja, Spain

A Visit and a Tasting at Bodegas Bilbaínas in Haro with Head Winemaker Diego Pinilla Navarro, Spain

Visiting, Tasting and Eating at Bodegas Palacio, with Winemaker Roberto Rodriguez, Rioja, Spain

Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain

schiller-wine: Related Posting (Spain)

Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Winemaker Dinner at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA/Spain

Alejandro Luna Beberide from Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide in Spain at the Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC

The Wines of Bodegas Epifanio Rivera in Spain

Welcoming Winemaker Ruben Saenz Lopez and his Bodegas San Prudencio Wines from Rioja in Spain to Washington DC

Meeting Didier Soto and Tasting His Biodynamic Mas Estela Wines from Catalonia

Meeting Up-and-coming Winemaker Rita Ferreira Marques from the Duoro Area in Portugal at Screwtop Winebar in Clarendon, Virginia

Meeting Winemaker Yolanda Viadero from Valduero Vineyards in Ribera del Duero and in Toro, Spain, and Tasting Her Excellent Wines

Dinner with Spanish Winemaker Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez, Bodegas Bleda, at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA

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