Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Picture: Champagne Reception at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

The last event of the 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy was a tour of and dinner at Château Haut-Bailly. It was a most memorable evening thanks to our charming host, Diana Paulin, the very special setting in the dining and the living rooms of Château Haut-Bailly, the excellent food of Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot, and – last but not least - the superb Chateau Haut-Bailly wines.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Haut-Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly is a Graves Cru Classé estate that has really hit form in the last 5-7 years. It is located in the commune of Léognan, which is usually more associated with white wine production. Just a stone’s throw away from the city of Bordeaux and our hotel, Château Haut-Bailly, one of the most prestigious Cru Classé de Graves, sits majestically in a 30 hectare vineyard at the heart of the Graves region on the left bank of the river Garonne. Neighboring estates include Château Malartic-Lagravière, Château Smith Haut Lafitte and Château Carbonnieux. The estate's second wine is named Le Parde de Haut-Bailly.

Pictures: In the Vineyard

At Château Haut-Bailly wine has been produced for more than five centuries. Like many Bordeaux estates, the property changed owners multiple times over the centuries. However, three owner families put their mark on the estate.

First, in 1630 it was bought by the Le Bailly family which eventually gave the estate its name. In those days the château had about 80 acres under vine, roughly the same as today. There were many ups and downs during the centuries and by the 1950s the estate was in a sorry state.

Pictures: Cellar Tour

Second, a wine merchant from Belgium, Daniel Sanders, bought the château in 1955 and started intensive renovations. His efforts proofed him right and Château Haut-Bailly was one of the 16 wine producers awarded with the Grand Cru Classé certification in the 1959 classification of the Graves estates.

Finally, in 1998, Elisabeth and Robert G. Wilmers – he is an American banker, she is French – bought Château Haut-Bailly and spared no expenses to invest in the vineyards, winery, and the château to give the estate the possibility to keep producing top quality wines.

Today, Château Haut-Bailly is managed by Véronique Sanders, fourth generation of the Sanders family.

Pictures: Bumping into the Cellar Master

Château Haut-Bailly Portfolio

Château Haut-Bailly has 28 hectares of vineyards which are very well sited on high, gravelly ground just east of Léognan village. In total the estate produces 150,000 bottles annually. Approximately 50% of production from the property is Grand Vin, 30% is second and 20% is third wine, although this will depend on the 
vintage.

Grand Vin: Château Haut-Bailly

The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). The grapes are fermented in 26 concrete tanks of different sizes. The wines are aged for 18 months in new (about 50%) and used barrique barrels. There are 3 different cellars for barrel aging.

La Parde de Haut-Bailly

The estate's second wine is La Parde de Haut-Bailly, produced since 1967, but under the name Domaine de la Parde until 1979. It is aged in barrels for 12 months.

Pessac-Léognan by Chateau Haut-Bailly

The property’s third wine, "Pessac-Léognan," which bears the same name as its appellation, was created in 1987. It comes from young vines – an accessible wine that has spent less time in barrel and can be enjoyed young.

Rose de Haut-Bailly

Since 2004, Château Haut-Bailly has produced a ‘rosé de saignée’ when the conditions allow.

Robert G. Wilmers, Owner of Château Haut-Bailly

In 1998 Château Haut-Bailly was purchased by American Robert G. Wilmers, chairman and CEO of the M & T Bank based in Buffalo, New York. As a lover of Bordeaux Grands Crus, his dream came true when he became the owner at Haut-Bailly. He spent much of his childhood and professional life in Belgium. Along with his French wife, Elisabeth, he continues his close ties with Europe, where some of their family live.

Pictures: In the Cellar

Hugely conscious of Haut-Bailly’s history yet eager to ensure continuity and modernity, he entrusted in 1998 Haut-Bailly’s management to Véronique Sanders, granddaughter of Jean Sanders.

Véronique Sanders, General Manager

In 1998, at the age of 30, Véronique Sanders became the General Manager of Château Haut-Bailly, making her one of a very small number of women in charge of a vineyard and the fourth generation of her family to be associated with Haut-Bailly. After two years of preparation at the Grandes Ecoles françaises, she obtained a Master’s degree in economics at the Sorbonne. She began her career at Publicis-FCB in Paris and Prague. Deciding to improve her knowledge about wine, she returned to Bordeaux in 1997 to obtain her DUAD diploma from the Faculty of Oenology. Following the sale of Château Haut-Bailly by her grandfather, Jean Sanders, Robert G. Wilmers appointed Véronique as Commercial Director in 1998 and General Manager in 2000.

Champagne on the Deck

Amuses Gueules

NV Pol Roger

One of the great nonvintage Champagnes, this is a wine with considerable bottle age, full of toasty flavors. With its gooseberry and apple fruit flavors, it is still fresh, but its great character comes from its supreme elegance. 94 pts. Wine Enthusiast: December 1, 2005. Approximately US$40

Pictures: Champagne Reception

Wine Pairing Dinner

Pictures: Wine Pairing Dinner

Cep mushroom raviolis

Picture: Cep Mushroom Raviolis

La Parde de Haut Bailly 2012

Better than many of the Haut-Baillys made in the 1970s and 1980s, the second wine exhibits nice, sweet black cherry and blackcurrant fruit, cedar, earth and spice box. It is lovely, round, seductive, medium-bodied and best drunk over the next 10-12 years. It’s a perfect second wine, with much of the character of its bigger sibling. Robert Parker, April 2015. 89 points. Wine-Searcher Average Price: US$23

Picture: La Parde de Haut Bailly 2012

Rack of veal and roasted figs

Picture: Rack of Veal and Roasted Figs

Château Haut-Bailly 2011

Absolutely brilliant - again! The lovely and charming Veronique Sanders and the team at Ch. Haut-Bailly have done it once more. In a vintage where all the châteaux really did have to craft their babies and contend with more than problematic growing conditions, Ch. Haut-Bailly has come out almost on top of the pile, surpassing several First Growths in quality. Sadly the rigorous selection needed to make the Grand Vin so Grand will make a staggering effect on supply this year in what is an already tiny production.

Picture: Château Haut-Bailly 2011

Incredible intensity and deep red and black fruit with the finest tannins of the vintage coating the palate. It has precision, grace, complexity and power with an outstanding richness that fills the mouth completely. Better than 2009 or 2010? It sort of sits between the two. The power of 2009 and finesse of 2010. A real must have and I think the price will be down on last year, but I worry about being able to buy enough. Heavenly happiness! Simon Staples, Berry Bros. and Rudd’s Fine Wine Director. Wine-Searcher Average Price: US$87

Cheeses

Picture: Cheeses

Château Haut-Bailly 2007

Manager Véronique Sanders and Technical Director Gabriel Vialhard have worked wonders here, catapulting Haut-Bailly into the very highest echelon of Bordeaux wines. The 2007 is as silky-textured and seductive as ever with refined, creamy black cherry and redcurrant fruit and a powerful yet feminine charm. The nose is more serious than usual with ripe raspberries and coffee hints, while the famous Haut Bailly terroir bursts through on the finish alongside firm, supple tannins and intense, minerally fruit. Made with more Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) than usual, this is another absolutely irresistible Haut-Bailly. Simon Staples, Berry Bros. and Rudd’s Fine Wine Director. Wine-Searcher Average Price: US$67

Picture: Château Haut-Bailly 2007

Vanilla parfait and cherry sorbet

Picture: Vanilla Parfait and Cherry Sorbet

Picture: The Wines

Tea, Coffee

Pictures: Tea/ Coffee

In the Kitchen of Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot

Thank you very much Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot for an outstanding dinner.

Pictures: Last Stage - Visit in the Kitchen of Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot

Going Home

What an evening!

Picture: Good Night

Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

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Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Diana Paulin

Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY

Monday, May 23, 2016

Tour and Tasting at Château Palmer, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Picture: At Château Palmer, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Château Palmer is named after a British officer, General General Palmer. It is the top estate of the Margaux appellation after Château Margaux. It is located in the center of the Margaux appellation, and its vineyards lie on a sparse gravel plateau. Château Palmer's relatively high Merlot content makes Palmer the closest in style of any leading Médoc properties to the great wines of Pomerol and St-Emilion.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Palmer Coming from Château Rauzan-Ségla

Wine has been produced at this estate since 1748. The château changed hands multiple times until it was acquired in 1938 by a syndicate of four very prominent Bordeux families - the Sichel, Ginestet, Miailhe and Mähler-Besse families - forming the Société Civile du Château Palmer in the process. Since then, the Ginestet and Miailhe families have pulled out. The heirs of the Sichel and Mähler-Besse families remain shareholders of the Société Civile du Château Palmer.

Château Palmer

Château Palmer is a Troisième Cru en 1855, situated in the communes Margaux and Cantenac. Once a part of Château d'Issan, 50 hectares of vineyards came to the Gascq family - an influential Bordeaux dynasty - in the late 1700s. These vineyards became Château de Gascq, which quickly established itself.

Pictures: In the Vineyard

In 1814, the widow of the final Gascq heir sold the property to General Charles Palmer, who had fought with Wellington against Napoleon. General Palmer gave it his own name and invested in the property over the following years, acquiring additional land and facilities. By 1831, Château Palmer had 82 hectares under vine, and had a reputation on a par with Château Margaux and Château Beychevelle. His political career and fortunes, however, began to falter and eventually Charles Palmer had no choice other than to sell off his assets, including Château Palmer. Charles Palmer died in London in 1851. Although his tenure of the estate was a relatively short one of just 29 years, he nevertheless left his mark; the property, vineyards and wine remain Château Palmer to this day.

From 1844 to 1853, Château Palmer was owned by the Caisse Hypothécaire de Paris. From 1853 to 1938, it was owned by the Péreire brothers Isaac and Emile Péreire, bankers and rivals of the Rothschilds. In 1938, a syndicate of the Sichel, Ginestet, Mialhe and Mähler-Besse families took control. Over the years, the Ginestet and Miailhe families have pulled out.

Pictures: Sorting Tables

Today, the vines of Château Palmer cover a surface of 52 hectares, mostly located in the Cantenac sector of Margaux, made up of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. The high share of Merlot makes Château Palmer Palmer unique in the Medoc.

Pictures: In the Cellar

The grapes are fermented in 52 temperature controlled, cone-shaped stainless steel vats that vary in terms of size. The Grand Vin is Château Palmer; it sees up to 21 months in oak of which 45% is new. Château Palmer also produces Alter Ego. Because the latter comes from different and has a different blend than the Grand Vin, Château Palmer does not consider Alter Ego as its second wine, but as a different, indeendet wine. The Alter Ego de Palmer sees up to 17 months in oak, of which between 25-40% is new.

The production of the Grand Vin Château Palmer is 11,000 cases and of Alter Ego de Palmer 8,000 cases.

Pictures: Tasting

Tasting

2011 Alter Ego de Château Palmer

“Wahoo!” Tempted just to leave it at that really. Since 2005 particularly, tasting at Palmer has been one of the highlights of the week for myself and the BB&R team. It’s not only the Grand Vin that has been honed into a magnificent Adonis, but this too is a beauty to behold in its own right. Some second wines are a pale image of their big brother. However, Alter Ego is no Fredo to Michael Corleone. It’s lush, approachable, joyful even playful in comparison but by no means insignificant. It’s something fun to play with until the Grand Vin is ready to reveal itself. A definite buy for my cellar this year. Simon Staples, Berrys’ Fine Wine Director

Wine-searcher average price: US$72

2006 Château Palmer

Coffee, plum and spices on the nose follow through to a full body, with lovely fruit and a soft, silky-textured finish. Very balanced and beautiful, with lots of violet, new wood and richness. Long. Needs time. James Suckling, Wine Spectator, Rating: 93

Wine-searcher average price: US$229

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4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

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Tourt and tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Diana Paulin

Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY