Friday, April 29, 2016

Tasting the Wines President Obama was Served: At Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Picture: Tasting at Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker

When President Obama and the First Lady where in Berlin in 2013 and sat down with Chancellor Merkel and her husband, Professor Dr. Sauer, for a State Dinner, what wines did they drink? A Mosel? A Rheingau? No, they were served wines of Weingut Dreissigacker in Rheinhessen and of Weingut Markus Schneider in the Pfalz. 2 star Michelin Chef Tim Raue prepared the food. Tim Raue: “The 2 winemakers and I represent very well the modern Germany: Globally thinking and at home in the region.”

Picture: Angela Merkel and Michelle Obama Sipping German Wine (Source: Reuters)

Jochen Dreissigacker and Markus Schneider were very proud that their wines were selected: “Our wines are being poured all over the world – in Dubai, Norway, South Africa and of course in the United States. Our wines have not yet been served in the White House. But with the dinner at Schloss Charlottenburg we hopefully got a bit closer to that. We hope that President Obama liked our wines. German wines can compete with the best wines in the world.”

See:
The Wines Chancelor Merkel Served President Obama and Michelle Obama in Berlin (and the Wines she did not Serve), Germany  

We had the pleasure and the privilege to have a massive winetasting with Ute Dreissigacker at Weingut Dreissigacker.

Schatzi Wines is the US Importer of Weingut Dreissigacker.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Dreissigacker

Weingut Dreissigacker

Schatzi Wines: Ancient chronicles reveal that 1728 was an excellent year for wines. Perhaps even back then, the generation that founded the winery (now known as Dreissigacker) was blessed with a good harvest because at that time, founding father, Jacob Sauer, not only farmed a wide range of agriculture but succeeded at cultivating a vineyard, lying the foundation for generations to come. Be that as it may, it wasn’t until the early 20th century that the focus shifted to winemaking when Adolf Sauer III decided to export his wines to England. After the Second World War, in 1952, the husband of Christa Sauer, Philipp Dreissigacker, took over the business and forty years later, in 1991, all other agricultural pursuits were abandoned to focus solely on winegrowing when Frieder and Ute Dreissigacker took charge. At that time the winery used conventional methods to cultivate a large number of different grape varieties, but when their son (and current proprieter) Jochen Dreissigacker entered the business in 2001, radical changes were made–crucially, converting the estate to employ labour-intensive, organic viticulture. Today, the name Dreissigacker stands for outstanding rieslings of the highest quality, both in Germany and abroad.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Dreissigacker with Ute Dreissigacker

Rheinhessen is a supremely unique expression of German viticulture. Normally when we think of the greatest vineyard sites for Riesling, we envision the breathtaking slopes of the Mosel or the hand-worked terraces of the Rheingau but in the best villages of Rheinhessen, the vines grow on gentle slopes with shallow deposits of loess and loam, overlying a bedrock of active limestone—reminiscent of the great terroirs of Burgundy– and is packed with history. In fact, the vineyards surrounding Jochen’s town of Bechtheim are the oldest known sites for growing wine in the Rheinhessen. Historically, these plots of land were reserved exclusively for viticulture. As early as 1780, the Prince of Leiningen issued a decree in Bechtheim that resulted in Germany’s first demarcation of terroirs; this decree threatened to punish anyone who planted grape vines outside of the specifically designated, predestined areas – a ground-breaking step on the path toward modern, high-quality viticulture. Today, this historic soil that is over 230 years old, is used to grow Jochen’s young vines. These sites produce wines of great depth and concentration with scintillating tension amongst fruit, ripe acidity and mineral structure.

Jochen Dreissigacker is a young vigneron, fiercely dedicated to giving voice to some of the most exciting vineyard sites of Rheinhessen, though according to his parents, he was not destined to become a vigneron. Jochen’s older brother was to inherit the family-business while he was encouraged to pursue something that was more “down-to-earth”–what resulted as an education in accounting. Despite his degree, Jochen couldn’t ignore his strong desire to make wine and began apprenticing with various winemakers–most notably of which was the iconic Klaus-Peter Keller. After several years of working alongside Keller, Jochen took the reins at his family estate.

“Luckily, my brother bought a neighboring winery in 2006, so we could both practice the professions we love. Today, both wineries work closely together.”

Jochen continues to focus on enhancing the vitality of his soils using natural methods, limiting yields, harvesting by hand and vinifying with native yeasts; here, he captures the individual mineral character of each of his parcels, revealing wines with power and depth without the weight of high alcohol that many of the region’s more famous wines possess.

Pictures: Ute Dreissigacker

Since converting to sustainable farming practices in 2001, the soil has been successfully restored and the estate is now certified organic. Dreissigacker sows green manure to boost the humus allowing cover crops to loosen the soil with their roots, absorb all superfluous nitrogen and, in conjunction with microorganisms and other soil-dwelling life forms, constantly regulate the nutrient content of the soil. If necessary, weeds are removed mechanically, the area around the vines is hoed and on occasion, if necessary, they add small quantities of organic fertilizer. All of these measures help to create balanced plant growth and strengthen the root systems, encouraging them to penetrate deeper into the mineral-rich layers, absorb additional nutrients and better resist disease. In addition to mindful farming, Jochen tremendously reduces his yields–sometimes as low as 15hl/ha! At the beginning of summer the crew cuts off at least one third of the grapes on each vine. As a result, the bunches that remain on the vine absorb additional nutrients, light and air, ensuring optimal quality.

Accompanying the importance of soil composition, climate and farming techniques, is the act of picking and pressing the grapes. Jochen and his team handle the grapes very carefully; bruising the skins is avoided to prevent oxidation or premature fermentation, both of which can be detrimental to the quality and result in a loss of flavor. Once the grapes arrive at the winery, most are macerated to extract additional aromas and structure. The fruit is then pressed and left to ferment without any further interference to ensure a natural fermentation process.

“A few years ago, when the time came for me to take over the family winery and realise my own ideas and vision, I made a decision. I wanted to take something good and make it truly excellent, to transform good flavour into an exciting experience, and elevate pleasant wines to an inspiring experience. In all that I did, I worked with the unique mineral composition of our vineyards, the local climate and microclimate and harnessed my deep passion for winemaking. Ecology, sustainability and the respectful use of the existing resources has gradually changed the face of our vineyards. Imagination and pragmatism were my daily helpers in my search for the perfect wine.”

The Wines Ute Dreissigacker Poured

2014 Weingut Dreissigacker Weissburgunder trocken

2014 Weingut Dreissigacker Grauburgunder trocken

2014 Weingut Dreissigacker Riesling trocken

2013 Weingut Dreissigacker Bechtheimer Riesling trocken

Schatzi Wines: This is the village wine and is sourced from the top sites around Bechtheim: Geyersberg, Stein, Rosengarten and Hasensprung. Geyersberg, which sits to the east of Bechtheim, has a distinct smoky characteristic that influences this blend. It is fermented in stainless; 15-20% is raised in oak barrels.

2013 Weingut Dreissigacker Wunderwerk Riesling trocken


2012 Weingut Dreissigacker Hasensprung Riesling trocken

Schatzi-Wines: This single vineyard bottling bridges our entry level and top tier wines. Hasensprung sits west of Bechtheim and north of Westhofen. Although the soils here are different from those of Westhofen, it is reminiscent of a baby Kirschspiel with its mineral laciness, linear structure and energetic aromatics. Hasensprung is a clay-based soil with a topsoil consisting of loess and loam.

2012 Weingut Dreissigacker Rosengarten Riesling trocken

2012 Weingut Dreissigacker Geyersberg Riesling trocken

2013 Weingut Dreissigacker Geyersberg Riesling trocken

Robert Parker (Steffen Reinhard): The intense yellow 2013 Geyersberg Riesling trocken was still very young and closed on the nose when I tasted it end of August. There were still flavors of the spontaneous fermentation and yeasty aromas dominating the nose which were serious and showed a deep, concentrated mix of mineral notes and pineapple aromas. Succulent, precise and elegant on the palate this full-bodied and expressive wine has a tautly woven structure and a lovely mineral piquancy with lots of limes, a lingering salinity and persistent citrus flavors. It has very good aging potential. 91 / 100

2011 Weingut Dreissigacker Geyersberg Riesling trocken


2012 Weingut Dreissigacker Kirchspiel Riesling trocken

Robert Parker (Steffen Reinhard) on 2013: Sourced from the Westhofen cru the citrus colored 2013 Kirchspiel Riesling trocken is clear and quite complex on the nose with powdered chalk, citrus and ripe yet discreet Riesling aromas. Very mineral, fresh and elegant on the palate, this is a tightly woven, serious and terroir-driven wine that is full of finesse. Still very young but it shows great potential. 92 / 100

2012 Weingut Dreissigacker Morstein Riesling trocken

Schatzi Wines: Morstein is situated on the south-facing slope that stretches from Gundersheim to Westhofen. Jochen’s vines here are 40 years-old, grown on pure limestone subsoil topped with heavy clay and marl. Underground springs allow for more water retention and consequently, a higher risk for botrytis. The first documented mention of the site dates from 1282 and is considered by most to be the top site in Westhofen. This has more power than the Kirchspiel and more focus than the Geyersberg; it is stony and emits aromas of orange citrus and roasted caraway seeds.

2013 Weingut Dreissigacker Morstein Riesling trocken

Robert Parker (Steffen Reinhard): Citrus colored, the 2013 Morstein Riesling trocken is smoky, mineral and deep on the nose revealing ripe and concentrated Riesling berry aromas dotted with limes and notes of the spontaneous fermentation. Full-bodied, rich and pure, the flavors are complex and elegant on the palate and lead this well balanced wine to develop a salty, piquant and aromatic finish with citrus flavors in the long aftertaste. This is an expressive, terroir-driven Morstein from one of Germany's most popular non-VDP estate.

2014 Weingut Dreissigacker Morstein Riesling trocken


2014 Weingut Dreissigacker Geyersberg Riesling trocken

Schatzi Wines on the 2012: This is the granddaddy of Dreissigacker's dry range in its corpulence, body and texture. It is marked by its fragrant smokiness, like fire-roasted sweet corn. Because the site typically ripens one week earlier than the other sites in Westhofen and Bechtheim, Jochen puts this wine in oak. His parcels lie in the middle of the slope and face due south. At 7 ha, this is Dreissigacker's largest holding and will therefore be our go-to single vineyard site from the estate. Soils are crushed marl and loess and yields are reduced to roughly 15hl/ha—what is insanely selective—to ensure a high level of quality.

2013 Weingut Dreissigacker Kirchspiel Silvaner trocken

2014 Weingut Dreissigacker Kirchspiel Weisburgunder trocken

2011 Weingut Dreissigacker Spätburgunder trocken

2012 Weingut Dreissigacker Wunderwerk Spätburgunder trocken

Bye-bye

Thanks Ute for an outstanding tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Postings on the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour, Tasting (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - German South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Salwey in Oberrotweil, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Benno Salwey – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Paring Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Maison Léon Beyer in Eguisheim, Alsace, France, with Marc Beyer – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

At Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace, with Catherine Faller: Tasting and Tour – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller Catoir – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, with Steffen Christmann – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning in Deidesheim, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Josef Biffar, in Deidesheim, with Owner/ Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant fumi at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim with Owner/ Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka: Japan Meets Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt, Pfalz, with Markus Schneider - Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franzi Schmitt – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz-Ebersheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY    

Thursday, April 28, 2016

9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse, Frankfurt, Germany – Schiller’s Favorites

Picture: Owner Johannes Hasselbach, Weingut Gunderloch, with Annette and Christian Schiller at 9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse, Frankfurt, Germany

Bernd Klingenbrunn’s and Armin Busch's K&M Gutsweine is a leading wine retailer (with 2 shops and an online business) in Frankfurt, Germany, my base, when I am in Europe. Once a year, Bernd and Armin present their outstanding German wine portfolio to their customers, with many of the wine producers present. This year, I was lucky to be in Frankfurt at the time of show. Here are my impressions.

Pictures: 9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse (Photos Sven Klundt)

Picture: Bernd Klingenbrunn and Armin Busch

Participating Winemakers

Pfalz

Weingut Klundt

Lyle Fass, New York: Sven is a brilliant winemaker, very smart and incredibly nice and polite.  It was evident from the first taste of his basic wines that he is an incredible young talent. But then we moved to the 2013 Kastanienbusch which was in barrel and very early in its life. Sven did not want to taste me on it as it needed tons of coaxing in the glass and was not clarified so it was cloudy. I sat there with a small glass of the 2013 Kastanienbusch and sniffed and swirled and tasted until it finally got to the place I wanted it to go.  I was thrilled - we finally have our Kastanienbusch and at a price 40% less than I thought I would have to charge. It's about 1/3rd the price of Hansjorg Rebholz's you get a wine from a young up and coming grower from one of the greatest terroirs in Germany.

Picture: Sven Klundt at 9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse

Reichsrat von Buhl

One of the great producers in the Pfalz with a long history that recently has taken a new direction with a new owner, new management team and a new winemaker, Matthieu Kaufmann, who was the Chef de Cave of Bollinger before joining Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl. We will visit Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl on this year's Germany-South tour by ombiasy WineTours, see: Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY

Weingut Mehling

Weingut Pfirmann

Weingut Jülg

Annette and I discovered Weingut Jülg at an earlier K&M Gutswein Hausmesse. Since then, we have visited Weingut Jülg several times on an ombiasy wine tour, see: Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Jülg is based in Schweigen. Unusually, their vineyards are in Germany as well as in France. Karin Jülg runs the wine tavern which is known for outstanding traditional Pfälzer cuisine. In the mid 1980s Werner Jülg converted the family winery from a low-end mass producing winery -so typical for the Pfalz in those days- into a wine estate that produces outstanding wines of the highest quality. He is also known for his excellent Sekt making: the Blanc de Noir produced in the Method Champenoise with traditional Champagne grapes is absolutely delicious. Weingut Jülg produces only dry wines mostly with traditional Burgundy grapes. After finishing his studies in oenology son Johannes is now also working in the winery to continue with the family tradition.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Johannes Jülg, Weingut Jülg, at 9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse

Weingut Jülg wines are available in the US and Annette Schiller already organized a winemaker dinner with Weingut Jülg in Washington DC. By chance, Armin Busch and his wife were in the region and able to join us for the dinner. See: Winemaker Dinner with Friedrich Jülg, Weingut Jülg, Pfalz, Germany, at Evo Bistro in McLean, Washington DC, USA

We will visit Weingut Jülg on this year's Germany-South tour by ombiasy WineTours, see: Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY

Pictures: Armin Busch and Friedrich Jülg in Washington DC

Baden

Weingut Köbelin

An up-and-coming producer in Baden with 15 hectares. 70% is accounted for by Pinot Noir, Blanc and Gris. See: Wine Maker Arndt Koebelin at K+M Gutsweine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

We will visit Weingut Köbelin on this year's Germany-South tour by ombiasy WineTours, see: Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY

Picture: Annette Schiller and Monika Köbelin at 9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse

Weingut Ziereisen

Weingut Sven Nieger

Runner-up in the Falstaff Newcomer of the Year 2015 Competition. See: Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2015

Picture: Sven Niger at 9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse, Frankfurt, Germany

Weingut Alexander Laible

Franken

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf

A leading producer of fine dry Franken wines. I like in particular the super-delicious Silvaner wines of Matthias Stumpf, who recently has taken over with his sister Melanie Kröger-Stumpf, see: Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Picture: In the Vineyard with Reimund Stumpf, Weingut Bickel-Stumpf

Weingut Stadt Klingenberg

Weingut der Stadt Klingenberg was taken over by the talented Benedikt Baltes a few years ago and has seen since then a phenomal upswing. Clearly somebod to watch. Benedikt's wine are now available in the US, see: German Wine at Cleveland Park Wines in Washington DC, with Chris Bartha from Ultra Fine Wines and Annette and Christian Schiller from ombiasy WineTours

Weingut Max Müller I

Ahr

Weingut Julia Bertram

Julia Bertram is a former German Wine Queen and partner in business and life of Benedikt Baltes (Weingut der Stadt Klingenberg). She just started her own little wine production with the grapes of her families' vineyard. Both Julia and Benedikt come from the Ahr region. See: The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

Pictures: Getting Riesling Tattoos for the Cruise - Wine German Queen Julia Bertram and  Eva Vollmer with Christian Schiller in New York See: The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

Rheingau

Weingut Balthasar Ress

Founded in 1870 by Balthasar Ress in Hattenheim in the Rheingau, Weingut Balthasar Ress developed into one of the leading wine estates of the Rheingau region and became a global player in the wine trade. Stefan Ress – now senior boss - owned and run Weingut Balthasar Ress for many years. In 2010, his son Christian Ress took over and Dirk Würtz became Winemaker and then Technical Director.

With Christian Ress and Dirk Würtz having taken over, Weingut Balthasar Ress has launched a series of new initiatives. Dirk Würtz is the brain behind the initiates in terms of vine growing in the vineyard and wine making in the cellar. I joined Dirk Würtz during the 2015 harvest for an afternoon and had a chance to talk with him about a variety of issues, including his push towards organic/natural/biodynamic winemaking, his “orange” wine, his ultra-premium red wine, to name a view. Overall, it was an exciting afternoon with a fascinating winemaker, who is also a star in the social media wine scene in Germany. See: At Weingut Balthasar Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, during the 2015 Harvest with Winemaker Dirk Würtz, Germany
Picture: Dirk Würz, Technical Director, at Weingut Balthasar Ress

Weingut Achim von Oetinger

When Achim von Oetinger's wines bcame available in the US a few weeks ago, and I wrote on my blog that I was very pleased, for several reasons:

First, Achim von Oetinger is one of the new stars of the Rheingau. It is not without reason that he was Stuart Pigott’s Discovery of the Year 2015. See: Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2014)

Second, on the forthcoming Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2016), Weingut von Oetinger is the first stop of the tour. See below and here: Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY and Coming-up: 2016 Spring Tours by ombiasy WineTours to Germany and the Bourgogne, Germany/ France

Third, Achim’s wines are super! See below what Doug Rosen has to say. I fully concur with Doug. See: Achim von Oetinger, Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, Germany: Welcome to the USA and See You Soon in Germany

Picture: Annette Schiller and Achim von Oetinger at 9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse

Rheinhessen

Weingut Gunderloch

Another world class producer that is changing direction under the new leadership of Johannes Hasselbach, who was drafted to take over the winery after his sister fell in love with Alwin Jurtschitsch while they both studied in Geisenheim and decided to move back with him to Austria. Johannes learnt quickly and gets a lot good press, nationally and internationally. See: "Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines

Picture: Johannes Hasselbach, Weingut Gunderloch, at 9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse

Weingut Eva Vollmer

Discovery of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2010), Dr. Eva Vollmer is another up-and-coming winemaker in the portfolio of K&M Gutsweine. While Eva was in Dortmund at and event with Stuart Pigott, her husband Robert Wagner was pouring in Frankfurt. She is a brilliant winemaker who has achieved quite a bit in a short period of time. The group was very impressed with the wines, with Eva and Robert and with the new hospitality area at the winery, when we visited Weingut Eva Vollmer last year, see: Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz-Ebersheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Picture: Lunch at Weingut Vollmer: Eva Vollmer, Christian Schiller and Annette Schiller

Weingut Weedenborn

Bernd Klingenbrunn: Deutschlands beste Sauvignon Blanc Kollektion - Germany's best Sauvignon Blanc Collection

Picture: Gesine Roll, Weingut Weedenborn, and Annette Schiller at 9. K&M Gutsweine Hausmesse

Mosel

Weingut Weber-Margarethenhof (Saar)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Winemaker Dinner with Friedrich Jülg, Weingut Jülg, Pfalz, Germany, at Evo Bistro in McLean, Washington DC, USA

Wine Maker Arndt Koebelin at K+M Gutsweine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2015

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

German Wine at Cleveland Park Wines in Washington DC, with Chris Bartha from Ultra Fine Wines and Annette and Christian Schiller from ombiasy WineTours

The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

At Weingut Balthasar Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, during the 2015 Harvest with Winemaker Dirk Würtz, Germany

Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2014)

Achim von Oetinger, Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, Germany: Welcome to the USA and See You Soon in Germany

"Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz-Ebersheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Basile Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Picture: Annette Schiller with Owner Basile Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclerq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet at Château Lafon-Rochet

This Château features some of the finest vineyards in the world. It is situated in the small appellation Saint-Estèphe and is sandwiched between two prominent neighbors: Cos-d’Estournel on the other side of the street and Lafite-Rothschild, separated only by a small dirt track, and visible across the vineyard that belongs to Lafon-Rochet. Since the 16th century this Château makes excellent wines and had been in the hands of the Lafon family for almost 300 years. In 1895 the phylloxera disaster forced the family to sell Château Lafon-Rochet. A period of a rapid succession of several disinterested owners followed until Guy Tesseron (who also bought Château Pontet-Canet) acquired the Château in the 1960s. He and then his son Michel brought Lafon-Rochet back to its former glory. The new generation is now at the helm and Basile Tesseron is energetically pursuing quality control.

Basile Tesseron was our host. We were also greeted by Michel Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclerq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Lafon-Rochet

Château Lafon-Rochet

Château Lafon-Rochet is a 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Medoc. It is one of the 5 classified properties in the appellation of Saint Estèphe. Its grounds are separated from those of Château Lafite to the north by the width of the road and from Cos d'Estournel by a dirt path.

Pictures: Owner Basile Tesseron Greeting us

History

The history of Château Lafon-Rochet starts in the 16th century, when a portion known as Rochet (because of its rocky terrain) eventually passed by marriage to Etienne de Lafon, who established Lafon-Rochet. The estate then passed down through the Lafon generations for almost 300 years.

When Guy Tesseron became the owner in 1959, it needed a serious restoration and Guy Tesseron did restore it to its former glory. Guy Tesseron was from a Chanterais family, specializing in the Cognac production.
Guy Tesseron first put the vineyards back in order. He then built new chai, and a new château, in the style of the 18th century. Also, some 25 hectares were added to the vineyard.

In 1975, Guy Tesseron also acquired 5th growth Chateau Pontet-Canet from the Cruse family. Both châteaux subsequently passed to the next generation with Lafon-Rochet coming to Michel Tesseron. Currently the property is in the good hands of Michel’s son, Basil Tesseron.

Pictures: With Owner Basile Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclerq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet in the Cellar of Château Lafon-Rochet

Michel and Basile Tesseron

Before joining the family business in 1987, Michel Tesseron worked in in Cognac, then in Bordeaux for Barton & Guestier, and for the négociants Chantecaille.

It was Michel Tesseron who oversaw the painting of the château yellow in 2000. At the same time, the bottles were redesigned and matching yellow labels and capsules are used now.

Basile Tesseron took over with the 2007 vintage and he now has full control.

Pictures: Michel Tesseron and his Dog

Vineyards and Wine Making

Lafon-Rochet's vineyards covers 45 hectares and are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon 54%, Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 2%.

Basile Tesseron and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet are steering Château Lafon-Rochet towards biodynamic viticulture, following the example of Basile’s uncle at Pontet-Canet. But Lafon-Rochet has not yet been certified.

Pictures: Cellar Tour

During our visit, I saw for the first time the completely renovated wine cellar. Importantly, Basile and Michel Tesseron decided to go the route of stainless steel tanks and concrete vats. To match the 40 different vineyard parcels, the estate now has 18 stainless steel tanks and 18 concrete vats in different sizes and shapes for fermentation. The wine is aged for 9 months in new oak and for another 9 month in used oak.

The grand vin is Château Lafon-Rochet (11000 cases). The second wine is Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet (also 11000 cases per annum and once known as Numéro 2 de Lafon-Rochet).

Pictures: At the Sorting Table

Tasting

Following the tour, we tasted 3 wines.

Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet 2011

This second label from Chateau Lafon Rochet is just fabulous and while it is made in the same traditional manner as its famous big brother, the wine reveals itself more rapidly so you can enjoy all summer with your steak barbecues! (Royal Wine Merchants, NYC)

Wine-searcher average price: US$ 20

Lafon-Rochet 2006

Tasted blind at Southwold '06 Bordeaux tasting. The best showing of the Lafon Rochet '06 so far! It has an open nose that is well defined, but unashamedly earthy and austere with aromas of pencil shavings, leather and a touch of white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with sharp acidity, a decent backbone here, structured, blackberry laced with black pepper with a salty tang towards the finish. Moderate length and a lively, tactile, "umami" aftertaste. Tasted January 2010. Score: 90 Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com, July 2010

US$ 60 at K&L Wine Merchants

Pictures: Tasting with Basile Tesseron

Lafon-Rochet 2010

I had some bottle variation with this blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The 2010 from Lafon Rochet seemed slightly restrained and closed down on the three occasions I tasted it in Bordeaux. Dense black/ruby, it displays sweet tannin, excellent purity, fresh fruit and a very primary, almost grapy style with lots of fruit, but at the same time, a somewhat monolithic character. It should turn out fine, but it certainly needs a good 7-8 years of cellaring and should drink well for up to two decades.The property is owned by the Tesseron family and run by the newest generation, son Basile, who is converting the estate to biodynamic farming a la his uncle, Alfred Tesseron at Pontet Canet. (2/ 2013) 90 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

US$ 49 at Flickinger Wine Merchants

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Directeur Technique Lucas Leclerq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet in Washington DC

Bye-bye

Thank you very much Basile Tesseron, Lucas Leclercq and Anaïs Maillet for a great tour and tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Château Lafon-Rochet)

Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France

A Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, with Winemaker and Owner Basile Tesseron (2013), France

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France

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