Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Rieslings from the New World – More Traditional than Rieslings from the Old World? A Tasting at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, Moderated by Stuart Pigott

Picture: Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, and Stuart Pigott Chairing the Tasting: Rieslings from the New World – More Traditional than Rieslings from the Old World? at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium took place on May 26 and 27, 2014, at Schloss Rheinhartshausen in the Rheingau. Riesling experts from around the world - top winemakers, representatives from the trade and restaurant sector, and journalists – gathered to celebrate, discuss and taste the arguably most noble white grape in the world - Riesling.

Picture: Stuart Pigott and Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

I have already provided an overview about the 2nd International Riesling Symposium event: The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

This posting focuses on one particular event, a spectacular tasting, led by Stuart Pigott: Rieslings from the New World – More Traditional than Rieslings from the Old World?

Pictures: Fun at the Tasting

For last year's Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, see:
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

For the 1st International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, see:
1. International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany
Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

Riesling in the World

There are about 47000 hectares planted with Riesling worldwide. Germany – with 22500 hectares – accounts for about half of the total. The second and third largest Riesling producer are the US (mainly Washington State and Finger Lakes Region) with 4800 hectares and Australia with 4100 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Alsace, Ukraine and Austria follow with 3500 hectares, 2700 hectares and 1900 hectares.

Overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine. In terms of quality wines, Riesling is usually included in the top three white wine varieties, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Riesling is highly terroir-expressive, meaning that the character of Riesling wines is clearly influenced by the wine’s place of origin.

The Tasting

Pictures: The Tasting

Australian Terroir


Grosset, 2013 Springvale Riesling

Stuart Pigott: Jeffrey Grosset, owner and founder, has always been an innovator, challenging tradition and questioning accepted practices. The winery was founded in 1981. The vineyard area totals 21 hectares. Production is 11000 cases. Riesling accounts for 70% of the production. The Claire Valley, north of Adelaide, where Grosset is located, is one of Australia's oldest wine regions, best known for Riesling wines. It has a climate of daily extremes.

Grosset, 2013 Polish Hill Riesling

Stuart Pigott: Both are extremely bright wines. Both wines are bone dry. Both wines have strikingly different personalities.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jeffrey Grosset at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

Henschke, 2013, Lenswood Green’s Hill Riesling

Stuart Pigott: Henscke is a sixth generation family estate established in 1868 in the Barossa’s Eden Valley. The vineyard area totals 100 hectares. Production is 40000 cases. Riesling accounts for 10% of the production, Shiraz for 40%. Stephen and Prue Henschke believe in careful traditional winemaking and use organic and biodynamic practices.

Lots of apple notes, high acidity, long finish.

Henschke, 2013, Julius Eden Valley Riesling

Stuart Pigott: Striking acidity, with aromatic layers. One of my Australian favorites. All 4 of them, you could leave for another 20 years in the cellar.

Pictures: Annette and Christian G.E. Schiller the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

Frankland Estate, 2011, Riesling Isolation Ridge Vineyard

Stuart Pigott: Frankland Estate is a family owned and operated wine producer located in the isolated Frankland river region some 380 kilometers south-east of Perth in Western Australia. It was founded in 1988. The vineyard area totals 30 hectares. Annual production is 20000 cases. Riesling accounts for 30% of the production.

11% alcohol – so much for New World wines being high in alcohol.

Pictures: Hunter Smith, Frankland Estate, at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

Jim Barry, 2009, The Florita Riesling

Stuart Pigott: Back to the Claire Valley. Jim Barry was founded in 1959. The vineyard area totals 243 hectares. Annual production is 80000 cases. Riesling accounts for 30% of the production, Shiraz for 40%.

I cannot imagine a more prototypical Australian Riesling than this one. Has the lime aroma, which is so typical for Australian Riesling. The wine has lost first flush of freshness.

Picture: Peter Barry and Ernst Loosen in China during the "Riesling Revolution" Tour in 2014 (Source: Dr. Loosen Website)

New Style Dry Rieslings from North America


Trefethen Family Vineyards, 2013, Dry Riesling

Stuart Pigott: Who says that Riesling does not well in Napa Valley and should not be grown there? Trefethen Family Vineyards was founded in 1968. The vineyard area totals 243 hectares. Annual production is 60000 cases, of which 3% only is Riesling.

Tantalus Vineyards, 2012, Riesling

Stuart Pigott: This wine is from Canada, from an area bordering Washington State. Many people would say that it was impossible to make wine there. Tantalus started to make wine in 2005. Production is 6000 cases. Very high acidity. This is a wine that is daring.

Chateau Grand Traverse, 2012, Lot 49 Riesling

Chateau Grand Traverse, 2012, Whole Cluster Riesling

Stuart Pigott: Edward O’Keefe founded Chateau Grand Traverse in 1974 with the aim of producing world class Riesling on the Old Mission Peninsula in Northern Michigan, USA, not a place that people would associate with world class Rieslings. A place where you need to be daring and John O’Keefe, who is responsible for these 2 wines, is daring. The wines have some very interesting aromas that you do not find elsewhere, anis, phenol. Riesling accounts for 70% of the production of Chateau Grand Traverse.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and John O'Keefe, Chateau Grand Traverse, at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

New Style Dry Rieslings from East Europe

Stuart Pigott: Nobody is taking East Europe seriously, when it comes to Riesling. But a lot is happening there. I included 2 wines from “behind the Iron Curtain” that should give you an idea what is happening there, in Ukraine, Moldova, Hungary, Czech Republic and other countries.


Chateau Bela, 2012, Chateau Bela Riesling

Stuart Pigott: From the Slovakian part of the Danube Valley. An Egon Mueller (Mosel) project. Founded in 2001, 6 hectares, 2000 cases.

Klaus Zimmerling, 2012, Riesling “R”

Stuart Pigott: A wine from the Sachsen area in the former GDR. A seriously concentrated and elegant wine. It has some noticeable sweetness, but this is where the fermentation stopped.

Weingut Klaus Zimmerling was founded in 1992, 4 hectares, 1300 cases, 40% Riesling.

Pictures: Christian G.E. and Annette Schiller with Klaus Zimmermann at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

New Style Medium-dry Rieslings from North America


Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2012 Eroica Riesling

Stuart Pigott: A joint venture of Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State and Weingut Dr. Ernst Loosen in the Mosel Valley, with grapes from Washington State. A very successful wine. Chateau Ste. Michelle makes almost 3 million cases of wine every year. For me the distinctive aroma is white peach.

Cave Spring, 2012 CSV Riesling

Stuart Pigott: Named after the limestone caves and mineral springs located in their eponymous vineyard, Cave Spring Cellars has been producing outstanding wine for nearly 30 years. Founded and operated by the Pennachetti family and veteran winemaker Angelo Pavan, the estate has been vital in the development of the wine industry in Niagara, most notably as pioneers of vitis vinefera with plantings dating back to the 1970s.

Growing on limestone. In the summer it is almost as warm as in Napa Valley. Extreme climatic situation. A very uncompromising style.

Picture: John O'Keefe, Chateau Grand Traverse, with Angelo Pavan and Thomas Pennachetti at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

Lamoreaux Landing, 2012 Red Oak Vineyard Riesling

Stuart Pigott: The Finger Lakes region is receiving quite a bit of attention. Both wines (this and the next wine) are from the Seneca Lake, in the medium-dry style. The winery was founded in 1990. Total production is 14000 cases, with 30% accounting for by Riesling.

Red Newt Cellars, 2012, Sawmill Creek Vineyards Riesling North Block

Stuart Pigott: The winery was founded in 1998. Total production is 18000 cases. Riesling accounts for 75%. Red Newt Cellars does not own any vineyards and bus all fruit from growers. Both wines are high in acidity. For both winemakers, Cabernet Franc is the other important grape.

New Style Natural Sweet Rieslings from New Zealand


Felton Road, 2013, Riesling Block 1
Felton Road, 2002, Riesling Block 1

Stuart Pigott: A wonderful combination of wines, showing very well how these wines can age. Mosel has played a role in these wines, but they have their own personality. Demeter-certified viticulture and very simple “hands off” winemaking.

Felton Road was founded in 1991. Annual production is 12000 cases. Riesling accounts for 10% and Pinot Noir for 70%.

Pictures: Owner Nigel Greening, Felton Road with Lukas Pichler, F.X.Pichler, and Christian G.E.Schiller at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

Framingham, 2013, Riesling Auslese “F-Series”
Framingham, 2013, Noble Riesling

Stuart Pigott: These wines caused quite a storm at a blind tasting in which I participated. People thought that this was not possible in New Zealand. You have to be daring. Obviously, such wines can not only be made in the Mosel Valley.

Framingham was founded in 1994; it is owned by Sogrape Vinhos. Annual production is 26000 cases. Riesling accounts for 8% and Sauvignon Blanc for 75%.

Picture: Winemaker Andrew Hedley and Annette Schiller at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany

Stuart Pigott: These and the other wines show that New World wines can be subtle, can be intense, can be mind-blowing.

Postings about the 2014 International Riesling Symposium on schiller-wine

This posting is part of a series about the 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany. Here is a list of the Postings already published and those still coming.

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
A Tour through the Rheingau - Visits of 3 Prestigious, Historic Rheingau Wineries: Weingut Wilhelm Weil, Kloster Eberbach and Schloss Johannisberg
Rieslings from the New World – More Traditional than Rieslings from the Old World? at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany
2. International Riesling Symposium: Tasting with Giuseppe Lauria the Grands Crus Couples from VDP.Grosse Lage Vienyards – Riesling Grosses Gewaechs and Riesling Spaetlese
2. International Riesling Symposium: Tasting with Cornelius and Fabian Lange Rieslings from Danube, Rhine, Nahe and Moselle: The European Riesling Route
2. International Riesling Symposium: Tasting with Caro Maurer Aged Rieslings from around the World: Riesling and its Aging Potential
German Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
American Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
Austrian Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
New Zealandian Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
Australian Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
Canadian Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA 

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World – Snooth 2012

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

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