Monday, March 31, 2014

"Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines

Picture: Johannes Hasselbach, Alwin Jurtschitsch and Max von Kunow in Washington DC

“Wurzelwerk und Winzers Beitrag” (Root Work and Winemaker’s Contribution) is a fascinating and much talked about project of 4 winemaker friends/relatives from 3 world class wineries in Germany and in Austria.

Max von Kunow (Weingut von Hövel, Saar, Germany), Johannes Hasselbach (Weingut Gunderloch, Rheinhessen, Germany) and Alwin + Stefanie Jurtschitsch (Weingut, Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, Austria) shared a portion of their 2012 Riesling grapes with the other 2 wineries and vinified the own portion as well as the 2 portions from the other 2 wineries into 3 separate wines. Thus, they made a total of 9 different wines.

Picture: The Wurzelwerk Team (Stefanie Jurtschitsch, nee Hasselbach, was not be able to join us in Washington DC)

In March 2014, they (except for Stefanie Jurtschitsch – expecting a baby) came for about a week to the US. The main reason was the New York City presentation of their estates at the David Bowler Portfolio tasting. They used the trip to present their Wurzelwerk project to the American public. The March 18 tasting in Washington DC, organized by Rudi Wiest Selections and ombiasy PR and WineTours, was the central event in the US.

See:
Special Wine Event on March 18, 2014, in Washington DC with "Wurzelwerk": 3 Terroirs, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines

Pictures: Wurzelwerk went Underground. The Tasting took Place in the Basement (Domaine Wine Cellars)

This posting is the second posting in a mini-series covering Wurzelwerk and the 3 contributing wineries:

Special Wine Event on March 18, 2014, in Washington DC with "Wurzelwerk": 3 Terroirs, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines
"Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines
Weingut Gunderloch – The New Generation: Owner Johannes Hasselbach in Washington DC, US
The Wines of Stefanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, Austria
Weingut von Hoevel – The New Generation: Max von Kunow in Washington DC, US

4 Winemakers and 3 Wineries

Stefanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch - Weingut Jurtschitsch

David Bowler (US Importer of Weingut Jurtschitsch): Over the past generation, the Jurtschitsch winery in Langenlois, Kamptal, has grown into one of the most prominent top wineries in Austria. Having being run by the three brothers Edwin, Paul and Karl Jurtschitsch, the family-owned winery has now been passed on to the younger generation, to Alwin Jurtschitsch and his partner Stefanie Hasselbach.

This family business succession has been prepared thoroughly. The couple travelled around the world, gathering experience in New Zealand and Australia. Working as interns in famed wineries in France, they got to know the French school of the Old Wine World. “It was a wonderful time and we learnt a lot. Now, we can put the ideas and the experience we have gained into practice back home in the Kamptal”, explains Alwin Jurtschitsch.

Pictures: The 3 of them getting ready

A first step was the change-over to an organic cultivation of the family-owned vineyards. It was followed by a reduction of the wine-growing sites so that they could concentrate of the first-class appellations of the Kamp Tal. And all this went smoothly and with a great deal of sensitivity and respect for tradition.

The wine philosophy also underwent a transformation: “Our wine style became more ‘polarising‘, characterised by the idea of terroirs without compromise”, says Stefanie Hasselbach.

They produce wines which let the vineyards and soils speak for themselves, even about the winegrower who cares for them. “Yes, we are farmers”, Alwin Jurtschitsch stresses, “this is our work, our tradition and handcraft in the best sense of the word.” In the cellar, all this is turned into a work of art. The wines shine in multi-faceted elegance, offering drinking pleasure at highest level without being baroque and heavy. The Grüner Veltliner wines interpret the Kamp Valley’s spiciness at its finest, while the Rieslings impress with their crystalline minerality. The renowned Gault Millau wine guide most recently called the Jurtschitsch winery “the most exciting one in Langenlois at present”!

Pictures: Small talk before the tasting

Max von Kunow - Weingut von Hoevel

David Bowler (US Importer of Weingut von Hoevel): Baron Eberhard “Adt” von Kunow is the owner and proprietor of the small but wonderful von Hovel estate. He made the wines there from 1973 to 2010; however, after a debilitating stroke (from which we are pleased to report he has largely recovered), his son Maximilian (the 7th generation) took charge of the winemaking. Max runs the estate along increasingly organic methods, and like many in his generation, also seeks to create great dry wines. But von Hovel remains a haven for the hauntingly delicate style of fruity Rieslings unique to the Saar river valley, the coolest growing area in Germany. These are crystalline, low alcohol wines from the “old school,” teeming with minerals and flowers in their youth, and often petrolly in their later years. They represent some of the finest values in the Rudi Wiest portfolio.

Picture: Presenting the Wurzelwerk Project - Johannes Hasselbach, Molly Sweeny (Rudi Wiest Selections), Alwin Jurtschitsch, Max von Kunow and Annette Schiller (Ombiasy PR and WineTours)

The von Hövel estate has ownership in the following vineyards; all planted 100% to Riesling:

Oberemmeler Hütte – (17.5 Acres) a monopole of the estate – very light soil, weathered slate, it produces some of the most delicate, subtle, yet steely Rieslings in Germany.

Scharzhofberg – (7.5 acres) deeper, heavier soil, strong weathered grey slate with high proportion of rocks and gravel (70%), it produces more masculine wines

Oberemmeler Rosenberg – the estate owns over 6 acres of the “filet” piece also known as the Rosenkamm, which has many old vine scattered throughout. For example, the 2011 Riesling Estate Spätlese “R” was selected from only those old vines with a yield of only 10hl/ha!

Kanzemer Hörecker – (barely 1 acre) monopole – one of the smallest yet greatest vineyards in the Saar, grey green slate with a proportion clay and red soil.

The estate also owns small portions of the heavy soiled Oberemmeler Karlsberg.

The von Hövel estate produces 5,000 cs and is a founding member of the Mosel VDP. Adt von Kunow was for many years the auctioneer for the annual VDP auction in Trier.

The upcoming Germany (North) tour by ombiasy will visit Max von Kunow and his winery.

See here:
3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux 

Johannes Hasselbach - Weingut Gunderloch

It all started in 1890, when the banker Carl Gunderloch purchased the Gunderloch manor house in Nackenheim. As the story goes, he used to trek from Gundersblum, his place of birth, to his bank in Mainz. On these journeys he carefully observed how the sun played off the hills along the Rhein Terrace. Based on these observations he purchased vineyard property that appeared to collect sunlight most efficiently and founded the Gunderloch Estate. Today, the Estate is still in the hands of the Gunderloch family.

Pictures: Listening

The Gunderloch Estate also has an interesting tie to the German dramatist Carl Zuckmaier. Zuckmaier, who became a Hollywood screenwriter, was born in Nackenheim and a friend of Carl Gunderloch. Zuckmaier not only wrote the screenplay for the film "The Blue Angel", but also the plays "The Captain from Koepenick" and "The Devils General". He also used the Gunderloch estate for the setting, and Carl Gunderloch as the main character for his very first play "Der froehliche Weinberg" (the jolly vineyard). In this play Zuckmaier renamed Carl Gunderloch "Jean Baptiste" which is where the brand name used on the Gunderloch "Jean Baptiste" Kabinett is borrowed from.

The Estate has over 18 hectares of vineyards. In Nackenheim, there are holdings in the Rothenberg (Riesling), the Engelsberg (Riesling, Silvaner, Ruländer and Gewürztraminer) and the Schmitts Kapellchen (Scheurebe and Müller-Thurgau). In Nierstein, there are holdings in the Pettenthal and Hipping both planted with Riesling and the Paterberg with Ruländer and Müller-Thurgau.

Overall the vines on the estate have an average age of 25 years, and Riesling predominates as all but 20% of Gunderloch's vines are of this variety. The remainder is mainly Pinot Blanc (5%) and Pinot Gris (5%).

Vineyard practices include hand cultivation, hand harvesting and low yields with an average of 50 hl/ha for the estate as a whole. Once the fruit reaches the winery it is crushed gently without destemming, and then fed by gravity to the vats where it sees a slow, temperature-controlled fermentation to preserve the fruit character of the wines.

Picture: Presenting

The property and vineyards have remained in family ownership since the days of Carl Gunderloch, who died in 1935, the estate passing first to Gunderloch's granddaughter Elizabeth Usinger and her husband. They remained at the helm until 1965, when their son Carl Otto took on the management of the estate. Until recently, his eldest daughter, Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger and her husband, Fritz Hasselbach, were in charge. Today, Johannes Hasselbach is at the helm of Weingut Gunderloch.

For more, see:
Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

The upcoming Germany (South) tour by ombiasy will visit Johannes Hasselbach and his winery.

See here:
3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux 

Background

The Jurtschitsch couple met and studied togather at the Geisenheim University in Germany. When Alwin and Stefanie got married, Max von Kunow, who had studied with them at the Geisenheim University, was their best man. Through Stefanie Jurtschitsch (nee Hasselbach), Johannes Hasselbach was introduced to Alwin Jurtschitsch and Max von Kunow. Before taking over their respective wineries, each traveled and interned at wineries from Australia and New Zealand to Canada.

The Idea

The idea is simple: Each of them harvests on the same day 1500 kg of grapes from a top vineyard. Each of them shares 500 kg of the grapes with the others and keeps 500 kg. Each of them vinifies the 3 batches separately in his/her cellar.

Pictures: Tasting and Discussing

The Implementation

The implementation was a bit more complicated: To start with, the 4 winemakers had to find 3 parcels where the grapes were expected to be ripe at about the same time and could be harvested the same day. The harvest date had to be shiften several times for several reasons. After harvest, the grapes were allowed to macerate for 13 hours. 2/3 of the grapes underwent maceration on a truck, while being transported to the other wineries. Upon arrival at the wineries, the grapes were pressed and fermented with ambient yeast in 330 liter stainless steel tanks. Each winery produced 3 times 300 half liter bottles. Total: 2700 bottles.

The Vineyards

The grapes come from 3 of the best Riesling vineyards in the world: (1) Scharzhofberg at Weingut von Hövel (gray slate); (2) Nackenheimer Rothenberg at Weingut Gunderloch (red shale); and (3) Zöbinger Heiligenstein at Weingut Jurtschitsch (sandstone).

Pictures: Tasting and Discussing

Maximum Standardization

When I heard about the project for the first time, I thought that Max von Kunow had made his wines in a typical low alcohol, fruity-sweet style, Alwin and Steffi in a bone dry style and that Johannes perhaps could have experimented with fermentation in barrique. But this turned out not to be the case. By contrast, to the extent possible, they all did the same in the cellar. They all fermented in stainless-steel tanks, they all fermented the wines in a bone-dry style. The all used the same yeast – indigineus yeasts from the vineyard. The wines are what some people would call “natural” wines - minimal intervention wines.

The Tasting

We tasted the wines in 3 different flights: First, the 3 Scharzhofberg (Saar) wines, then the 3 Nackenheimer Rothenberg (Rheinhessen) wines and finally the 3 Heiligenstein (Kamptal) wines. Within each flight, the Weingut von Hoevel wine was the first wine, the Weingut Gunderloch wine the second wine and the Weingut Jurtschitsch wine the last wine.

Picture: The 9 Wines

As noted earlier, the difference in the wines was much less than I had expected due to the massive standardization of the fermentation process. At the same time, given that massive standardization, the differences in the wines were quite amazing.

The first flight - the 3 Scharzhofberg wines - was the leanest, with a tight acidity structure. The 3 Rothenberg wines were broader and more powerful, fruitier. The third flight – the 3 Heiligenstein wines – was the most mineral flight.

The second wine in each flight - the wines fermented in the Gunderloch wine cellar – all had a touch of sweetness and were the most opulent wines, while those fermented in the von Hoevel wine cellar – the first wine in each flight - came across as more filgran, bone dry and stealy. The wines fermented in the Jurtschitsch cellar – the last wine in each flight - were the most closed wines, with herbal, wet wood notes.

Overall, the wines showed more a wine cellar touch than a vineyard touch. This may change over time.

Pictures: Tasting and Discussing

Classification Issues

With the grapes being grown in one country and fermented in another one, all kinds of labeling issues came up. The wines had to be classified as European Table Wine. The famous vineyard names could not be utilized; instead, fantasy names appear on the label. Finally, the grape variety (Riesling) does not appear on the label. While all this indicates that you have a cheap wine in the bottle, the Wurzelwerk case with 9 0.5 liter bottles is not at all cheap. It sells for Euro 300 in Germany and Austria and was offered for $630 at the Washington DC tasting (by MacArthur Beverages).

Bye-bye

Thanks, Alwin, Johannes and Max, for a great evening.

Pictures: Bye-bye and Good Night

schiller-wine: Related Postings

3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Special Wine Event on March 18, 2014, in Washington DC with "Wurzelwerk": 3 Terroirs, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines 

Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, German

Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region - A Profile, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Balthasar Ress, Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Stefan Ress, Germany

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

A Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn, Germany

Tasting with Rita Busch at Weingut Clemens Busch in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Tasting with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Friday, March 28, 2014

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

Picture: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and WineTours, Presenting in Philadelphia

At the invitation of Beth C. Sheligo, President of the German Wine Society in the USA and President of the Philadelphia/South Jersey Chapter, Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and WineTours, gave a presentation and led a tasting at Café Aldo Lamberti, 2011 Marlton Pike West, Cherry Hill, New Jersey.

Picture: Café Aldo Lamberti

Annette talked about “New Developments in German Wine”, including the emerging new wine regions in the eastern part of Germany, the German red wine boom, and the new German Wine Classification, which is being pushed by the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers. She also briefly talked about the 2 wine tours coming up to Germany that she is organizing and leading.

We tasted 8 German wines from 8 different regions and had some good Italian food.

The Saale Unstrut Wine Region

The Saale Unstrut wine region is Germany’s most northern wine region, in the valleys of the Saale and Unstrut rivers, around Freyburg and Naumburg. With 730 hectares of vineyard area, it is one of the smaller wine regions in Germany. The oldest record of viticulture dates back to the year 998 during the reign of Emperor Otto III.

Located in the area of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR), Saale-Unstrut has become a thriving emerging wine region after the Berlin Wall came down in 1989 (as Sachsen, the other wine region in the area of the former GDR; Sachsen is half of the size of Saale Unstrut).

Pictures: In the Saale Unstrut region

The vineyards are located on the hillsides lining the Saale and Unstrut rivers. It all looks very attractive, with steep terraces, dry stone walls and century-old vineyard cottages, interspersed with meadows, floodplains. High above, are defiant castles and palaces. Saale Unstrut is located in a region that was the intellectual and cultural center of Germany (Heiliges Roemisches Reich Deutscher Nationen) for many centuries. The second German university (after Prague) was the University of Leipzig, which is just 50 km away from Saale Unstrut. Schiller and Goethe, to name just 2, lived here. Culture, history, nature and wine are combined here perfectly.

Picture: Germany's Wine Regions

Saale-Unstrut exports almost no wine and sells very little in the western part of Germany. Most of it is consumed in East Germany. The quality price ratio is not very favorable, so Saale Unstrut wines have a hard time to compete with the wines in West Germany. But the Saale Unstrut wine makers have no problems at all to sell their wine, as the Saale Unstrut wine is very popular with the locals and the tourists visiting East Germany, including the Baltic Sea. Of course, when you visit Weimar, Erfurth or Leipzig, to name a few of the many very historic towns of the eastern part of Germany, you want to drink local – either Saale Unstrut or Sachsen wines.

White grape varieties make up 75% of Saale-Unstrut's plantations. The most common grape varieties are the white varieties Müller-Thurgau and Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc). The wines tend to be vinified dry and have a refreshing acidity.

The German Red Wine Boom

There is a red wine boom in Germany. The share of red wines in terms of production has increased from 10 percent in the 1980s to about 35 percent now in Germany. Of course, given its location, the German red wines tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, in the international scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this has changed. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world.

Picture: Annette Schiller Presenting in Philadelphia

4 Approaches to Classifying German Wine

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. There are four approaches to classifying wine in Germany. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the powerful group of German elite winemakers, the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten), which has conceived its own classification system. Other winemakers moved to a zero classification system – no classification, an approach very familiar in the New World. Finally, there is a fourth group of winemakers that have designed their own classification system.

Pictures: Annette Schiller Presenting in Philadelphia

The VDP Classification

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest. The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

Picture: Annette Schiller with Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Weil, and Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Germany Wine Tours by ombiasy in 2014

As in previous years, the husband and wife team Annette and Christian Schiller will personally guide the tours throughout the trip. Through our friendships with many winemaker and owners, the tours are a very intimate, personal experience for everyone in the small group (10 people maximum) traveling with us.

Quintessential German Whites (Germany-North): From September 04 – September 13, 2014, we will explore six (Saale-Unstrut, Franken, Rheingau, northern Rheinhessen, Mosel, Nahe) German wine regions with visits to 19 top wineries and cultural gems.

The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South): From September 14 – September 20, 2014, we will explore three wine regions (Baden, Pfalz, southern Rheinhessen) in the south of Germany and will experience the German red wine revolution.

For the exact itinerary, prices and other questions, visit the ombiasy Public Realtions website:
ombiasy Public Relations.

The Germany tours are 2 of 3 tours by ombiasy coming up in 2014:
3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

For a summary of the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, see:
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Picture: Tasting in the Courtyard of Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, during the 2013 Germany Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy

What we Tasted

The wines were selected by the German Wine Society (Philadelphia).

Reds:
2011 Spaetburgunder, Affentaler Cooperative– Baden
2011 Spaetburgunder, A. Christmann – Pfalz

Pictures: The Wines we Tasted

Whites:
2012 Mueller-Thurgau pur mineral, Fuerst – Franken
2010 Foster Mariengarten Riesling Kabinett, Eugen Muller – Pfalz
2011 Ruedesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett, Josef Leitz – Rheingau
2011 Niersteiner Bruecken Riesling Kabinett, Strub – Rheinhessen
2011 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett, St. Urbans-Hof, Mosel
2011 Niederhaeuser Hermannshoehle Riesling Spaetlese, Jakob Schneider, Nahe

Pio Boffa and Pio Cesare

Café Aldo Lamberti was packed that night. Of course, Annette contributed to it. The private room reserved for the German Wine Society was solidly filled.

But the star of the evening was Pio Boffa from the famous Pio Cesare winery in Italia. A winemaker dinner with Pio took place at the same time as Annette’s event. Pio drew a crowd of 170 people, compared with 22 people listening to Annette.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Pio Boffa in Philadelphia

Annette and I recently attended a Pio Cesare winemaker dinner in Virginia, lead by Pio’s nephew Cesare Benvenuto and we had the pleasure to spend an evening with Pio Boffa in 2010 in Washington DC.

See:
The Wines of Pio Cesare with Owner Cesare Benvenuto and the Food of Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, Italy/USA
Pio Boffa and the Wines of Pio Cesare, Piedmont, Italy

schiller-wine: Related Postings

3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region - A Profile, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Balthasar Ress, Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Stefan Ress, Germany

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

A Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn, Germany

Tasting with Rita Busch at Weingut Clemens Busch in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Tasting with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Germany’s Top 19 Winemakers - Der Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2014

Picture: Philipp Wittmann, Weingut Wittmann, and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Weil

Der Feinschmecker, the leading German wine and food journal, presented its new ranking of the German wine scene in the Der Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2014.

The Der Feinschmecker Weinguide 2014 includes the 900 top winemakers of Germany; 19 of them are in the top category of 5 F’s. The Der Feinschmecker uses a scale of 1 to 5 F’s.

For previous years see:
Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012 
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2011
Germany's 15 Top Winemakers - The Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2010

Promotions and Demotions

1 winemaker was promoted to 5 F's: Weingut Meyer Näkel in the Ahr Valley. Nobody was demoted.

19 Top Winemakers

Here are those winemakers that got in the Feinschmecker Weinguide 2014 the maximum number of 5 F's, grouped by wine region.

Ahr

Weingut Meyer Näkel

Weingut Meyer Näkel was established by the marriage of Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel. Although Willibald Näkel only cultivated 1.5 hectares of vines he was already a pioneer for the then rather unusual dry red wines from the Ahr valley. Today’s 15 hectares estate is managed by his son Werner Näkel, his wife Claudia and their daughters Meike and Dőrte.

Pictures: Doerte Naekel and Christian G.E. Schiller at a Dinner in Hattenheim, Rheingau

See:
Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Baden

None

Franken

Rudolf Fuerst

Weingut Rudolf Fuerst has the reputation of being a specialist for red wines, Spaetburgunder and Fruehburgunder, which account for 60% of the production; but brilliant dry wines are also produced. 18.6 hectares.

Horst Sauer

Weingut Horst Sauer is well known for his noble-sweet wines, but the Sauers also produces top dry wines, from Silvaner and Riesling. 16.5 hectares.

Hessische Bergstrasse

None

Mittelrhein

None

Mosel

Fritz Haag

Weingut Fritz Haag produces a broad range of styles, from dry to lusciously noble sweet wines. Weingut Fritz Haag is owned and run by Oliver Haag. In the US, it is available through Loosen Bros. (Ernst Loosen). 16.5 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and German Winemaker Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, in Seattle

See:
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Kartaeuserhof

A wine estate in the Ruwer Valley, with a long tradition and an exciting history, now led by Christoph Tyrell; he has focused on carefully crafted dry wines. 19 hectares. A couple of months ago, a press release indicated that Christoph Tyrell, who has no children and who is on his mid-60s, has arranged the succession of the Karthaeuserhof with his cousin Albert Behler. Albert Behler lives in New York City, where he is President and CEO of the Paramount Group, one of the largest privately-owned real estate companies in New York City. 19 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Christoph Tyrell, Karthäuserhof, in Mainz, Germany.

For more, see:
The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Dr. Loosen

Run and owned by one of the most entrepreneurial German winemakers, Ernst Loosen; in addition to producing outstanding wines in Germany, he makes the famous Eroica in Washington State (jointly with Chateau Ste. Michelle) and has started to produce wine, notably Pinot Noir, in Oregon. 22 hectares.

Pictures: Ernst Loosen, Annette Schiller and Christian G.E.Schiller at the Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen

See:
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World;
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Egon Mueller - Scharzhof

The legendary Scharzhof lies on the Saar River. Egon Mueller’s fruity sweet and noble sweet, low alcohol wines are a legend. 16 hectares.

Joh. Jos. Pruem

For decades now, one of the really exceptional winemakers in Germany. The aging potential of the Weingut J.J. Pruem wines is legendary. Katharina Pruem is in the process of taking over from her father Manfred Pruem. 21 hectares.

I met Manfred's daughter Katharina Pruem in Washington DC recently and wrote about Weingut JJ Pruem: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Picture: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and WineTours, with Manfred Pruem, Weingut JJ Pruem.

See:
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013
3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

Sankt Urbans Hof

A rather young wine estate that was established about 50 years ago. It is now owned and run by the founder’s grandson, Nik Weis. Most of the elegant, fine and light wines are exported. 33 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Nik Weis in Berlin: Germany’s VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin - Overview

Maximin Gruenhaus - Von Schubert

The historic Maximin Grünhaus estate lies at the foot of a long, steep south-facing slope on the left bank of the Ruwer river and is divided into three separate but contiguous vineyards: Abtsberg, Herrenberg, and Bruderberg. The estate belongs to the family of Carl von Schubert. The estate was first documented in 966. The Schubert family purchased it in 1882.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Carl von Schubert in Washington DC

See:
Carl von Schubert from the Maximin Gruenhaus Estate Returned a Favor: With his Wines in Washington DC (and in Seattle), USA

Schloss Lieser

The village Lieser is located next to Bernkastel-Kues. The village’s landmark is the mighty castle “Schloss Lieser”, built in 1875 and inhabited by the Baron of Schorlemer. In 1904 the winery of Schloss Lieser was constructed. Over the years, several changes of ownership led to a decline in quality. In 1992, Thomas Haag, son of Wilhelm Haag, former proprietor of Weingut Fritz Haag, became the General Manager, bought the estate in 1997 and brought the estate of Schloss Lieser back to the top of the Riesling estates in Germany. 10 hectares.

Nahe

Herrmann Doennhoff

Owner and winemaker Helmut Doennhoff is a Grand Seigneur of German wine. His son Cornelius is in the process of taking over. 25 hectares.

Picture: Tasting with Helmut Doennhoff

See:
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Emrich-Schoenleber

Werner Schoenleber has invested a great deal of personal dedication and his promotion to the top rank is definitely warranted. His wines are known to be rich in character and highly esteemed worldwide. 17 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Werner Schoenleber, Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber at the 2013 Riesling Gala at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Schaefer- Fröhlich

Tim Fröhlich took over Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in 1995 and has since then impressed the wine world with his dry, fruity -sweet and noble sweet white wines. 15 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Tim Froehlich, Weingut Schaefer-Froehlich, in Wiesbaden

Pfalz

Knipser

A world class producer of both dry white and red wines. Werner Knipser has been experimenting with international red grape varieties for some years. Virtually all wines are fermented in a dry style. 57 hectares.

Rheingau

Kuenstler

As a founding member of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, I have watched Weingut Kuenstler in Hochheim ising from a small winery to one of the world leaders of German wine. The wine growing tradition of the Künstler family can be traced back to Southern Moravia in 1648. I remember very well the small row house in Hochheim that was the initial home of the Kuenstler winery in Hochheim. 42 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Gunter Kuenstler at Schloss Johnnisberg. Weingut Kuenstler was founded by my the late Franz Kuenstler. We were both founding members of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim: The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

See:
Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Robert Weil

A top producer of Riesling wines, in particular fruity sweet and noble sweet wines, well presented in the major wine markets in the world. Now co-owned by the Japanese Suntory company and General Manager Wilhelm Weil, the fourth generation of the founding family. 80 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller, Martina Weil, Annette Schiller, Wilhelm Weil at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala

See:
German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Rheinhessen

Keller

Leader of the Rheinhessen wine renaissance. Has a broad wine portfolio with 60 % accounted for by Riesling and also including the lesser known autochthon Silvaner as well as Spaetburgunder. 15 hectares.

Wittmann

Leader of the Rheinhessen wine renaissance. Since 2003 only biodynamic wine growing. A broad portfolio with 60% Riesling and also Silvaner and Spaetburgunder. Known for his outstanding dry wines. 25 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Philipp Wittmann in Mainz

Saale-Unstrut

None

Sachsen

None

Wuerttemberg

None

Postings - 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy

3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region - A Profile, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Balthasar Ress, Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Stefan Ress, Germany

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

A Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn, Germany

Tasting with Rita Busch at Weingut Clemens Busch in the Mosel Valley, Germany 

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Tasting with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Impressions from the Mainz Wine Market 2013, Germany

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Upcoming in September 2014: Germany Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasyPR - The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South)

Picture: Tasting in the Courtyard of Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz

From September 14 – September 20, 2014, we will explore three wine regions (Baden, Pfalz, southern Rheinhessen) in the south of Germany and will experience the German red wine revolution. For the exact itinerary, prices and other questions, visit the ombiasy Public Realtions website:
ombiasy Public Relations.

This tour is one of 3 tours by ombiasyPR coming up in 2014:
3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South)

We will visit a total of 17 wineries (12 are members of the VDP, the German association of elite wine makers; 1 is in Alsace) in 3 different wine regions where predominantly other grapes than Riesling are planted: Baden, the most southern German wine region and Germany’s answer to Burgundy; Pfalz with its almost Mediterranean climate and voluptuous whites and reds; Southern Rheinhessen where a variety of white grapes and also Pinot Noir grow.

We will get intimate insights into a selection of Germany’s best of the best wineries, normally not open to visitors.

We will learn how to read the label on German wine bottles.

We will get to know the classification of German wines including the new VDP classification.

We will explore why wine from the same vineyard can be sweet or dry.

We will experience the German red wine revolution and discover the German Pinot Noir country.

We will enjoy gourmet meals in the south of Germany very much influenced by the culinary traditions in neighboring France, just a hop across the Rhine River away.

We will travel through quietly beautiful sun-kissed rolling hills planted with vines as far as the eye can see.

Picture: The First Lady Sipping Weingut Markus Schneider Wine in Berlin Last Year. We will visit Weingut Markus Schneider (Source: Getty Images)

See:
The Wines Chancelor Merkel Served President Obama and Michelle Obama in Berlin (and the Wines she did not Serve), Germany 

Germany with its roughly 250,000 acres under vine belongs today to one of the smaller wine producing countries in the world. However, viticulture in Germany has a long tradition, going back to Roman times. In the 15th century, the area under vine was four times larger than it is today. Wars, subsequent loss of territory, diseases, overproduction, and competition from beer brewing resulted in land turned over to other agricultural uses. In the 19th century, concentration on terroir and technological progress fostered a tremendous improvement of quality and of the prestige of German wines. In 1987 German red wine accounted for only 15 percent of German wine output. Today, close to 40 percent of German wine is red. Soil conditions in the South were always conducive Pinot Noir and other red grape varieties, and with the climate changing more and more red varieties, in particular Pinot Noir, were planted. Today Germany makes stunning Pinot Noirs on par with the best of Burgundy.

Our way of traveling really allows wine lovers to fully experience authentic Germany. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of Germany and close personal ties to many personalities in the wine scene, our small group visits many of the hidden gems that other tours pass by, but which are essential to comprehend what German wine is all about.

Wineries

This is a new tour, with a large number of southern producers of ultra-premium German wine included:

Schloss Neuweier

Karl H. Johner
Visiting Winemaker and Web 2.0 Guru Patrick Johner - Weingut Karl Heinz Johner and Johner Estate - in Baden, Germany
German Wine Makers in the World: Karl Heinz Johner in New Zealand

Freiherr von Gleichenstein
In the Glass: A 2007 Pinot Noir from the Gault Millau Shooting Star of the Year - Estate of Baron Gleichenstein

Fritz Keller

Huber
One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

Dr. Heger
Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany

Zaehringer

Maison Trimbach
A Feast with Jean Trimbach, Maison Trimbach in Alsace, and Chef Bart M. Vandaele at B Too in Washington DC, USA/France
Back in the Washington DC Area: Jean Trimbach Presented Maison Trimbach Wines at a Winemaker Dinner at Open Kitchen, USA (2013)
Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace (2011)
With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC (2011)
Jean Trimbach and the Wines of Maison Trimbach in Washington DC (2010)

Friederich Becker
5 Top Wine Makers at Premier Cru Wein Bistro in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Rebholz

Bassermann-Jordan

Christmann
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Weegmueller
The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Markus Schneider
The Wines Chancelor Merkel Served President Obama and Michelle Obama in Berlin (and the Wines she did not Serve), Germany
German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Wittmann
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012

Klaus Peter Keller
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012

Gunderloch
Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany