Friday, November 22, 2013

Impressions from the 2013 VDP Rheingau Open at Schloss Johannisberg, Germany - Schiller's Favorites

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Achim von Oetinger, Weingut Achim von Oetinger, Erbach, at the 2013 VDP Rheingau Open

Once a year, after the end of the harvest, the VDP Rheingau – the elite wine producers of the Rheingau region in Germany – invites for a Jahrespraesentation (Annual Presentation) at Schloss Johannisberg. The event is called “Rheingau Open”. Each producer shows 3 to 5 wines.

See here for the 2011 presentation:
Impressions from the 2011 VDP Rheingau Open at Schloss Johannisberg, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Schloss Johannisberg

See more:
VDP Vineyard Illuminations at Johannisberg Castle

This year, all VDP producers of the Rheingau – in many cases the owner and/or winemaker herself/himself - were there; in addition guests from other regions as well as non-VDP producers of the Rheingau. All in all, 70 producers and about 250 wines.

The VDP

The VDP is the oldest association of wine estates in the world. In fact, it is the only one of its kind worldwide. No other country has a national organization of the top wine makers of the entire country.

In 1910, four regional wine-growers’ associations joined forces to form the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (i.e. estates that sold their “natural” [unchaptalized] wines at auction). These organizations – from the Rheingau and Rheinhessen, founded in 1897 and 1900, respectively, and their counterparts in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Pfalz regions, both founded in 1908 – were the forerunners of today’s VDP. At this time, fine German wines enjoyed a heyday. They were among the most expensive wines, on the tables of imperial houses as well as leading hotels and restaurants.

Throughout the past century, the quality-driven goals and strict standards of the VDP have played no small part in shaping the viticultural and winemaking practices in Germany. With their stringent statutes and their establishment of a German vineyard classification, the 200 members of the VDP have served as role models and justifiably can be viewed as the vanguard of the nation’s producers of top-quality wines.

Picture: The Crowd

On the VDP, see:
Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

The Rheingau

It is remarkable: For its entire length of nearly 560 miles, the Rhine flows north with one exception – a 28-mile stretch where the river changes its course. Here, it flows to the west, thereby enabling both the river and the vineyards facing it to bask in the warmth of the sun all day long. This is the Rheingau, one of the medium-size German wine regions. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.

The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines to take back to his estate in Virginia.


Picture: The Rheingau

Although the Rheingau is one of Germany’s smaller wine-growing regions, its 3,100 ha (7,660 acres) of vineyards are vastly diverse in their geological makeup. The soil varies from stony slate at the western part near the villages of Assmannshausen and Rudesheim to loess, sand and marl in the lower central villages of Geisenheim, Johannisberg, Winkel, Oestrich and Hattenheim. Soil reverts to stony phyllite in the higher central and eastern villages of Hallgarten, Kiedrich and Hochheim. Generally, wines from the lower slopes where the soil is heavier—sandy loam and loess—produce fuller wines, while at the higher slopes where it is more stony and slatey, the wines reflect more minerality, elegance and concentration.

The Rheingau enjoys a distinctly continental climate with cold winters and warm, but not hot, summers. The Rheingau is dominated by Riesling, accounting for 4/5 of the vineyard area. Pinot Noir accounts for 1/10 and is concentrated around Assmannshausen.

Schiller’s Favorites

Here are my favorites, in the order as they appeared at the tasting. The Rheingau Open was followed by the Rheingau Riesling Gala on the next day, in which I also participated. Some of the pictures are from the Rheingau Riesling Gala.

See here for the Rheingau Riesling Gala:
Rheingau Riesling Gala 2013 at Kloster Eberbach, Germany


Weingut Chat Sauvage

The Gault Millau Weinguide 2014 Rising Star Michael Staedter presented 3 Bourgogne wines, made in the Rheingau.

For more, see:
Weingut Chat Sauvage – Bourgogne in the Middle of the Rheingau: Meeting Chat Sauvage’s Winemaker and General Manager Michael Staedter, Germany

Weingut Fritz Allendorf

My favorite: 2012 Winkel Jesuitengarten Riesling VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

For more see:
Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorf in his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

Wein- und Sektgut Barth

The 2009 Barth Primus Sekt was just amazing.

For more see:
Barth Primus is Germany’s First Sekt Made with an Erstes Gewaechs Wine

Picture: Norbert Barth pouring at the 2013 VDP Rheingau Open

Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber (Nahe)

A guest from the Nahe, who is one of the best German Riesling producer.

See more:
Germany’s Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Werner Schoenleber, Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber, at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala

Weingut August Eser

Desiree Eser is now running this family-owned winery; I liked her entry-level wine, the 10. Generation "my way" very much.

Picture: Desiree Eser at the 2013 Rheingau Open

For more, see:
Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, on the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany

Weingut Joachim Flick

A FairChoice-certified winemaker in the Rheingau.

See also:
FairChoice Certified Wine in Germany: Weingut Joachim Flick in the Rheingau

Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung

I liked the 2011 Hattenheimer Engelmannsberg Spaetburgunder trocken, Erste Lage. When you are in the region, visit the estate - it is also a (modern) art gallery.

See more:
A Painted Winetasting at Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung in Hattenheim (Eltville), Rheingau, Germany

Weingut JJ Pruem (Mosel)

A guest from the Mosel - producer of legendary low alcohol, fruity sweet wines.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Katharina Pruem at the 2013 Rheingau Open

See also:
JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Weingut Jakob Jung

Alexander Johannes Jung is somebody to watch. The impromptu tasting with him during the 2013 German Culture and Wine Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours was one of the highlights of the tour, see:

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

Picture: Alexander Jung and Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, at the 2013 Rheingau Open

Weingut Doennhoff (Nahe)

A guest from the Nahe, a world class Riesling producer. Doennhoff presented an entry level wine, a dry and a fruity-sweet premium wine. 

See also:
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Weingut August Kesseler

August Kesseler from the western corner of the Rheingau prsented 3 Rieslings, all dry, and only one Pinot Noir, although he is the leading red wine producer in the Rheingau.

Picture: August Kesseler at the 2013 Rheingau Open

See also:
A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

Weingut Heymann-Loewenstein

A guest from the Mosel, a "terroir" legend. Reinhard and Cornelia Heymann-Loewenstein presented 5 wines, including 3 VDP.Grosses Gewaechs wines.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Reinhard Loewenstein at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala

Weingut Peter Jakob Kuehn

A bio-dynamic star winemaker from the Rheingau. I liked his entry level wine 2012 JACOBUS Riesling trocken, VDP.Gutswein.

The tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kuehn was one of the highlights of the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours, see more:
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Picture: Annette Schiller and Peter Jakob Kuehn, with Peter Bernhard Kuehn, at the 2013 Rheingau Open

Weingut Fred Loimer (Austria)

A guest from Austria, who I had met earlier this year at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle.

See more:
Austria at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Picture: Fred Loimer and Christian G.E. Schiller at the 2013 Rheingai Open

Weingut Kuenstler

Weingut Kuenstler presented 4 wines. The 2011 Ruedesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Auslese was impressive.

See:
Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Weingut Josef Leitz

The 2011 Gault and Milla Winemaker of the Year presented 4 wines, including a delicious 2012 Ruedesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spaetlese.

See:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Picture: Werner Schoenleber, Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber, and Josef Leitz, Weingut Leitz, at the 2013 Riesling Gala

Weingut Achim von Oetinger

Another winemaker to watch. Achim von Oetinger presented 3 wines: 2012 von Oetinger Loesslehm (Gutswein), 2012 Erbach Siegelsberg (VDP.Grosses Gewaechs) and 2009 von Oetinger "Edition" (Spaetburgunder trocken), all convincing.

Weingut Querbach

Peter Querbach is one of those VDP winemakers you do not hear much about in the wine blogger scene. But he makes excellent wines, as he demonstrated at this year's Riesling Gala again.

See also:
Chat Sauvage Versus Peter Querbach – An Impromptu Pinot Noir Wine Tasting with Kai Buhrfeind at His Grand Cru Wine Bar in Frankfurt, Germany

Picture: Peter Querbach at the 2013  Rheingau Open

Weingut Balthasar Ress

The "Von Unserm" is available at Total in the USA and one of our house wines when we are in McLean, Virginia.

The tasting with Stefan Ress was very much appreciated by the participants of the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours.

See also:
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 
Dirk Wuertz Presented the 2012 Grosses Gewaechs Wines of Weingut Balthasar Ress, Germany

Picture: Annette Schiller, Fred Elleman and Stefan Ress, Weingut Balthasar Ress, at the 2013 Rheingau Open

Weingut Wittmann

A prominent guest from Rheinhessen, the 2014 Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland Winemaker of the Year. He brought with him his legendary 2012 Westhofen Morsein Riesling trocken VDP.Grosses Geaechs.

Picture: Philipp Wittmann, Weingut Wittmann, and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala

Domaene Schloss Johannisberg

The host. Managing Director Christian Witte presented 3 "Schloss Johannisberger" wines, a Riesling Gelblack trocken, VDP.Gutswein, a Riesling Silberlack, VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, and a Riesling Rosalack Auslese, all 2012 and all very strong wines.

Picture: Christian Witte, Schloss Johannisberg, and Ulrich Allendorf, Weingut Fritz Allendorf at the table of Katharina Pruem, Weingut JJ Pruem, at the 2013 Rheingau Open

Weingut Robert Weil

The only Rheingau producer with 5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland prsented 3 excellent wines, all 2012 Riesling: Robert Weil, Riesling trocken VDP.Gutswein, Kiedricher Graefenberg Riesling trocken VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and Kiedricher Graefenberg Riesling Spaetlese.

See also:
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller, Martina Weil, Annette Schiller, Wilhelm Weil at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala

Weingut Dr. Loosen (Mosel)

A prominent guest from the Mosel. Ernst Loosen brought 5 wines, including a 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling trocken VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and a 2012 Uerziger Wuerzgarten Alte Reben Riesling trocken VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, which were both stunning. Chapeau!

See also:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Annette Schiller, Ernst Loosen and Christian G.E. Schiller at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala

Domdechant Werner’sches Weingut

The other star from Hochheim, Franz W. Michel of  Domdechant Werner'sches Weingut. In the US well known for its fruity-sweet wines, Franz W. Michel brought only one fruity-sweet wine and 3 dry wines to the tasting: 2012 Domdechant Werner Riesling trocken VDP.Gutswein, 2012 Hochheimer Kirchenstueck, Riesling trocken, VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and a 2011 Hochheimer Fruehburgunder trocken, VDP.Ortswein.

See also:
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Picture: Annette Schiller and Franz W. Michel, Domdechant Werner'sches Weingut, at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany’s Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Impressions from the 2011 VDP Rheingau Open at Schloss Johannisberg, Germany

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

VDP Vineyard Illuminations at Johannisberg Castle

Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

Weingut Chat Sauvage – Bourgogne in the Middle of the Rheingau: Meeting Chat Sauvage’s Winemaker and General Manager Michael Staedter, Germany 

Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorf in his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

Barth Primus is Germany’s First Sekt Made with an Erstes Gewaechs Wine

Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, on the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany

FairChoice Certified Wine in Germany: Weingut Joachim Flick in the Rheingau

A Painted Winetasting at Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung in Hattenheim (Eltville), Rheingau, Germany

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

Austria at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Chat Sauvage Versus Peter Querbach – An Impromptu Pinot Noir Wine Tasting with Kai Buhrfeind at His Grand Cru Wine Bar in Frankfurt, Germany

Dirk Wuertz Presented the 2012 Grosses Gewaechs Wines of Weingut Balthasar Ress, Germany

Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Rheingau Riesling Gala 2013 at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

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