Martin Mittelbach from the "Tegernseehof" and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Martin Mittelbach, Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC

One of the main drivers of Austrian wine at the East Coast in the US, Klaus Wittauer from KWSelection, invited for a special luncheon at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, where Martin Mittelbach from the Wachau presented his wines, paired with Austrian apetizers presented by Stefan Trummer from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton and prepared by his new Executive Chef Austin Fausett. I also had the chance to taste Martin Mittelbach’s wines the day before in Reston, at the Wine Cabinet.

Picture: Austrian Embassy in Washington DC

The Wachau

The Wachau is a UNESCO world heritage site in the Danube Valley between the towns of Melk and Krems. Mainly Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are grown 1,350 hectares, partly on very steep-inclined terraces.

Pictures: Martin Mittelbach, Klaus Wittauer and Christian G.E. Schiller at the Wine Cabinet in Reston, Virginia

The Wachau is one of Austria's most exciting and fascinating wine regions. Over millions of years, the Danube has gorged its winding waterway through the 'Gföhl' gneiss, a mineral rich composition of migmatitic granite gneiss, quartz, felspar and mica. The weathered primary granite rock soils on steep terraces produce outstanding Rieslings. Following the end of the Ice Age, prevailing winds carried drifting sand that settled in the lee of the east-facing hillsides, resulting in layers of loess forming. This is where great, opulent and expressive Grüner Veltliner is cultivated. These extremely diverse geological terrain, coupled with the construction of terraces in the best aspects, and the cultivation of vines on these steep inclines by the Bavarian monasteries during the Middle Ages, has resulted in a spectacular and unique Wachau landscape.

The climate also plays a vital role, and two major climatic influences, the western Atlantic and the eastern Pannonian, interlock with each other. 

Pictures: Martin Mittelbach, Stefan Trummer and Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy.

For upcoming ombiasy wine tours, see:
Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Wachau Wine Classification

In the mid-1980's, a select group of innovative producers in the Wachau created their own codex, aptly called the Vinea Wachau, where dry white wines are divided into three categories, based on their natural alcohol content by volume. Martin Mittelbach belongs to the group.

Aromatic, light-bodied wines up to 11.5% are called 'Steinfeder' (named after the tall, feather-like grass stipa pennata). The most common category is the 'Federspiel', with 11.5% to 12.5% alcohol by volume, and the late-harvest, rich and powerful, dry wines carry the term 'Smaragd'.

Martin Mittelbach and his Tegernseehof in the Wachau

The Mittelbach family's Tegernseerhof, located in Unterloiben, just below Dürnstein, boasts a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. The original facilities were built in 1176 by the Benedictine community of the Tegernsee Abbey. At the time, the abbey was recognized as a center for literature, the production of illustrated books and erudition. The abbey and its vineyards were first mentioned in a small book about the Tegernsee vineyards in 1427. For centuries, the abbey was where the Bavarian monastery produced its wine. At the turn of the 19th century, it was acquired by the Austrian Empire and decades later, it went into private ownership.

Pictures: Klaus Wittauer, Martin Mittelbach, Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC

Franz Mittelbach and his wife, Mathilde, are the fifth generation of  Tegernseerhof owners. Since the 1970s, they have been continuously running the Tegernseerhof as a family business. Today, Martin Mittelbach, the son of Franz and Mathilde, has carried on this tradition. Vineyards: 23 hectares (57 acres); 50 % Terraced Vineyards

Pictures: At the White House

The Wines

I tasted a range of wines during the 2 events. All of them are included here.

Tegernseehof Rosé Zweigelt 2012 US$12

Klaus Wittauer: “A beautiful hue of watermelon sets just the right tone for this bright, disarmingly fun rosé. Crisp, dry and ultra-refreshing, this light to medium bodied wine exudes an intoxicating perfume of ripe cherry and crushed strawberry. The wine holds its balance throughout the finish, never once striking a confectionery note. A joy to drink and absolutely appropriate anytime.”

Tegernseerhof T 26 Grüner Veltliner 2012 Federspiel US$16

Klaus Wittauer: “The vineyard is called Frauenweingarten. When we  tasted this wine the first time in 2006 it was in tank #26. Very aromatic, full of round fruit balanced with crisp acidity. The distinct soil lends a pleasant minerality, while the tropical fruit play is balanced with a white pepper note typical of this varietal. Pairs well with a wide range of foods including Asian cuisine and fish with fresh herbs.”

Tegernseerhof Grüner Veltliner Bergdistel 2011 Smaragd US$27

Klaus Wittauer: “The Bergdistel Smaragd is a blend of the lower terraces of the different Cru’s in Loibenberg and Weissenkirchen.  The combination of coolness, maturity and vitality of this Grüner Veltliner finishes in a shining elegance and full of finesse! Intense, concentrated wine, which packs spice, ripe pineapple and apricots and a final floral character that fills the mouth.  The result is one of the most elegant and balanced Smaragd Grüner there is…….”

Tegernseehof Riesling Terrassen 2012 Federspiel US$20

This wine just got 92 points in Austria and was voted best Federspiel Riesling by Falstaff

Klaus Wittauer: It´s peach, apple aroma flavors, mingle with a white pepper note in this scented yet powerful Riesling. Balanced and ending with a mineral aftertaste. This wine is simply delicious.

Tegernseerhof Weissenkirchner Zwerithaler 2010 Smaragd US$33

Klaus Wittauer: “This single vineyard from Weissenkirchen in the Wachau has very old vines and it is a field blend which is called “Gemischter Statz“ in Austria. Here is how Martin Mittelbach describes the wine: “Through the picturesque extravagance of “Zwerithaler” this cru developed into ascetic museum - old varieties, crumbling walls - the time seems to have stood still. To bring the flavor potential of these two positions accurately and significantly expressed, we put the varietal character in the background. This is a full-bodied dry white wine with a rich creamy texture similar to some to the great White Burgundies with a long beautiful finish……”

Tegernseerhof Riesling Loibenberg 2009 Smaragd US$37

Klaus Wittauer: “This single vineyard Riesling rivals the greatest white wines in the world. Powerful and punchy, layered with abundant fruit and complex minerals, it's stunningly great now and for the next twenty+ years. It tastes rich and lush in the mouth and finishes with a huge wallop of acidity that accentuates the complexity like a giant exclamation mark! Wow. Serve with sushi & sashimi, Mussels Meuniere, trout "Muddy Waters" from Uglesich's in New Orleans and roast pork loin with apples and cabbage.”

Tegernseerhof Grüner Veltliner Hoehereck 2010 Smaragd US$40

Austrian Apetizers from Trummer's on Main in Clifton, Virginia

Tom Sietsma of the Washington Post: “One of my favorite mom-and-pops in the area remains this three-story retreat in the charming hamlet of Clifton, where owners Stefan and Victoria Trummer continue to greet you as if you're good neighbors, and chef Clay Miller sends out food that makes the trip from anywhere worthwhile.” “At Trummer’s on Main, we combine my New York City experience with the charm of historic Clifton by stimulating guest’s senses with excellent food, always-intriguing unique cocktails and true European hospitality” says Austria-borne Stefan Trummer.

Christian G.E. Schiller with Martin Mittelbach, Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC

Stefan Trummer came with his new boss of the kitchen at Trummer’s: Chef Austin Fausett's formally Sous-chef at The Inn at Little Washington. Austin also cooked for one year in Vienna and speaks a bit of German.

Gurkensuppe

Smoked Trout Caviar with Buckwheat Blinis, Rhubbarb and Onion Jam, and Crème Fraiche

Chicken Liver Mousse Tartine on Baguette with Fava Beans and Toasted Hazelnuts

Asparagus Tips Wrapped with Speck and Greek Jogurt

Kuchen

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Dinner with Wine Maker Gerhard Wohlmuth sen., his Wines and the Food of Steierland’s Chef Ruth Stelzer, Austria

Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Meeting “John” Nittnaus from Gols, Burgenland, Austria

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

Visiting Christine, Christina and Franz Netzl in their Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum, Austria

Sauvignon Blanc in Austria – A Comparative Tasting with Falstaff's Peter Moser at Weinsinn in Frankfurt, Germany

With the WienWein Winemakers in Vienna in the Heurigen Drinking Gemischter Satz Wine

Lunch with Silvia Prieler, Weingut Prieler, Schuetzen am Gebirge, Austria

Producing Wines in Austria and Hungary - Franz and Franz Reinhard Weninger

With the WienWein Winemakers in Vienna in the Heurigen Drinking Gemischter Satz Wine

Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria

Tasting Leo Hillinger Red Wines with Leo Hillinger’s Assistant Winemaker Michael Hoeffken and US Importer Klaus Wittauer

Visit: Gerhard Wohlmuth sen. and his Weingut Wohlmuth in Austria

Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria

A Wedding and a Wine Tasting at Schloss Halbturn in Austria

A Super Wine Bar in a Supermarket: Meinl’s Wein Bar in Vienna, Austria

Zum Schwarzen Kameel - The Ultimate Classic of Viennese Wine Bars, Vienna, Austria

Vis-a-Vis Wine Bar in Vienna, Austria

Wine and Coffee with Guenther Hawelka at Café Hawelka (and at Buffet Trzésniewski) in Vienna, Austria

4th Annual Chardonnay Day - Chardonnay Around the World and in Pouilly-Fuissé

Picture: Pouilly-Fuissé

Today is the 4th annual Chardonnay Day. This is a global event set to run 24 hours in order to give everyone time to have a glass of Chardonnay when it makes sense in their time zone. All you have to do is share on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, Foursquare or any other social site using the #Chardonnay hash tag all day May 26th. You'll be able to search what other wine lovers are sharing by searching posts using the #Chardonnay hash tag.

See also:
Third Annual Chardonnay Day – Chardonnays Around the World, Snooth’s Top Picks and Hamilton Russell Vineyards in South Africa
A Global Event: Second Annual Chardonnay Day (@Chardonnay) #Chardonnay

Chardonnay Around the World

Chardonnay is grown wherever wine is made, from England to New Zealand, although the best Chardonnay comes from the Bourgogne. It is one of the most widely-planted grape varieties in the world, with over 175.000 hectares.

Chardonnay first rose to prominence in the Chablis, Bourgogne and Champagne regions. The Bourgogne Chardonnays were long considered the benchmark standard of expressing terroir through Chardonnay. In Chablis, Chardonnay is the only permitted AOC grape variety. The wines rarely go through malolactic fermentation or are exposed to oak. The biting, green apple-like acidity is a trademark of Chablis. In the Champagne, it is most often blended with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Champagne, Chablis and Burgundy account for more than 3/5 of all Chardonnay plantings in France.

In the US, Chardonnay found another region where it could thrive in California. The early trend to imitate the Bourgogne wines soon gave way to more buttery and oaky styles. New oak barrels coupled with malolactic fermentation were used to produce wines that were big in body and mouthfeel, and high in alcohol. In recent years, Californian winemakers have been trying to go back to more Old Word Chardonnay, leaner, using less oak and lower alcohol levels.

In Australia, the export driven wine industry was well situated for the Chardonnay boom of the 1980s and 1990s. Now being more famous for its Sauvignon Blanc production, Chardonnay was New Zealand's most widely planted grape variety until only a few years ago.

In conclusion, the area planted with Chardonnay throughout the world is estimates at over 175.000 hectares, with the US and France accounting for about half of it.

Large Chardonnay Producers in the World (in 1000 hectares)

1. USA (California 45, Oregon 3,Washington State 3)
2. France 35 (Bourgogne, Jura, Champagne, Loire Valley, Midi, Charentes).
3. Australia 23
4. Italy 12
5. Moldavia 8
6. South Africa 8
7. Chile 8

Chardonnay in the Mâconnais - Pouilly-Fuissé

Pouilly-Fuissé is a wine, known all over the world. Here are some basics: (1) Pouilly-Fuissé AOC is part of the Mâconnais, which is part of the Bourgogne. (2) In 1936, when the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC was created, 3 “Pouilly” AOCs were created: Pouilly-Fuissé AOC and Pouilly-Loché AOC plus Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC. (3) In 1971, the Saint-Veran AOC was created; it sandwiches the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC. (4) All these AOCs are located in the extreme south of the Mâconnais subregion and of the Burgundy wine region as a whole.

See:
In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Mâconnais

The Mâconnais in the Bourgogne takes its name from the provincial town of Mâcon. Most of the wine made in the Mâconnais is white wine. Chardonnay is the main grape grown.

Picture: Macon

Unlike the Cote d'Or to the north, where a densely planted strip of vineyards runs through the countryside, the vineyards of the Maconnais are more sparsely planted and interspersed with land dedicated to other forms of agriculture.

Macon has historically been most famous for its red wines. During the 20th century, however, white wine production accelerated dramatically and now represents the large majority of Maconnais wines. These whites are produced exclusively from the quintessential Burgundian variety Chardonnay.

Macon Appellations

These are the Macon appellations.

Bourgogne AOC – Interestingly, red wine made from Pinot Noir in Macon is typically sold under the more-prestigious, but broader Bourgogne AOC appellation.

Macon AOC - the generic appellation for red, white and rose wines from the Maconnais. The term Superieur may be added to denote a slightly higher alcohol level.

Macon plus name of village AOC: a number of communes within the appellation have been recognized as sources of higher-quality wines and may append their names to that of the appellation; for example, Macon Lugny.

Mâcon-Villages AOC - a title reserved for white wines.

Pouilly-Fuissé AOC
Pouilly-Loché AOC
Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC

Saint-Veran AOC

Vire-Clesse AOC – introduced in 1999.

Pouilly-Fuissé AOC

Pouilly-Fuissé is an AOC for white wine produced in the communes of Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly, Vergisson and Chaintré. The AOC was created in 1936. The area - before known simply as "Pouilly - was split into three AOCs: Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles.

Pictures: The Pouilly-Fuissé Vineyards

The Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards total 750 hectares; the Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles vineyards are much smaller.

While Pouilly-Fuissé is the best-known part of Mâconnais, there are no Premier Cru or Grand Cru vineyards within the AOC.

The AOC regulations only allow Chardonnay to be used. The allowed base yield is 50 hectoliter per hectare and the grapes must reach a maturity of at least 11.0 per cent potential alcohol.

The Beaujolais King George Deboeuf grew up in Pouilly-Fuisse.

Pouilly-Fume is an AOC further up north in the Loire region, on the opposite side of the Loire from Sancerre.  It has nothing to do with Pouilly-Fuissé. Only Sauvignon Blanc is made here.

Pouilly-Fuissé Climats/Lieux-dits

In the wine world, lieu-dit is something like a single vineyard, the smallest piece of land which has a traditional vineyard name assigned to it. In some cases, lieux-dits appear on wine labels, in addition to the AOC name. This is most commonly seen for Alsace wine and Burgundy wine. In the Bourgogne, the term climat is used interchangeably with lieu-dit.

The climats of Pouilly-Fuissé are:

Chaintré : Les Chevrières, Le Clos Reyssier, les Plantes Vieilles, en Cenan
Fuissé : Les Vignes Blanches, Vers Cras, Le Clos, Les Brûlés, Les Perrières, Les Combettes
Solutré-Pouilly : En Servy, La Frérie, Aux Chailloux, Aux Morlays, Vers Cras, Au Clos
Vergisson : Les Crays, La Maréchaude, En Carmentrant, En Bulland

Picture: 2008 Pouilly-Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly, En Servy

Pouilly-Loché AOC and Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC

Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles are located adjacent to the appellations Pouilly-Fuissé.

Pouilly-Loché AOC vineyards total 32 hectares and the Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC vineyards 52 hectares.

The AOC regulations only allow Chardonnay to be used. The allowed base yield is 50 hectoliter per hectare and the grapes must reach a maturity of at least 11.0 per cent potential alcohol. The three neighboring appellations all produce white wines of a similar style.

Saint-Véran AOC

Saint-Véran is a relatively new AOC, which sandwiches the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC.

The Saint-Véran AOC extends over 8 communes and is divided into two small islands separated from each other by the Pouilly-Fuissé appelation. It is made up of the villages of Davayé, Prissé and Solutré-Pouilly in the north, and Chânes, Chasselas, Leynes, Saint-Amour and Saint-Vérand in the south.

The Saint-Veran appellation covers 645 hectares. The maximum yield is 55 hectolitres/hectare, which is higher than in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Dinner at Restaurant Chateau de la Barge in Creches sur Saone in Burgundy, France

Puligny Montrachet Winemaker Dinner with Sylvain Bzikot, Domaine Bzikot Pere et Fils, at Jacques Imperato’s Mediterannee Restaurant in Northern Virginia, USA

A Global Event: Second Annual Chardonnay Day (@Chardonnay) #Chardonnay

Third Annual Chardonnay Day – Chardonnays Around the World, Snooth’s Top Picks and Hamilton Russell Vineyards in South Africa

Sylvain Bzikot's Puligny Montrachet, Bourgogne, France

Meeting Matthieu Mangenot, Managing Director of Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis, France and Tasting His Wines

The Best Chardonnays of the World - The 17th Annual Chardonnay du Monde® Wine Competition 2010

The California Central Coast Wines of Talley Vineyards

Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

Where the SAP Bosses Buy Their Wines – Weingut Bernd Hummel in Baden, Germany

Burgundy Wines in South Africa: Hamilton Russell Vineyards

As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar

Pacific Rim Winemaker’s Blog Recommends "German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine" on schiller-wine

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Pacific Rim Winemaker Nicolas Quille in Oregon

Quote from the Pacific Rim Winemaker's Blog:

“For those of you guys that really enjoy digging into German laws and regulation here is an excellent blog entry from Dr Christian Schiller about sugar levels, labeling laws and capitalization in Germany. A must read: http://schiller-wine.blogspot.com/2010/01/german-wine-basics-sugar-in-grape.html”
January 27, 2010

Here is the link to the Pacific Rim Winemaker's Blog.

Here is the link to referenced posting on schiller-wine. "German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine"

German Wine 101

Here are more postings “for those of you guys that really enjoy digging into German laws and regulation".

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine
German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version
Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Pacific Rim in Washington State

Pacific Rim in Washington State produces 190,000 cases of wine, almost all of which is Riesling. It is owned by the Banfi family from New York.

Pictures: Pacific Rim Winery in Washington State and Pacific Rim Wines

Randall Grahm

One of the wine world’s true iconoclasts, Randall Grahm, founded Pacific Rim. The owner of famed Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz in California started his Pacific Rim project in 1992. Unusually, he used grapes from Washington State and from Germany.

By 2006, Randall Grahm’s decided to downsize and reorganize. Randall sold his popular Cardinal Zin and Big House brands and started to spin off his Pacific Rim wines as a standalone winery in Washington State, where the US Riesling grapes came from. He worked with the Den Hoed family, longtime grape growers in the Yakima Valley, to create a winemaking facility in the shadow of Red Mountain. The Den Hoeds built the building, which they own and lease to Pacific Rim. This year, Pacific Rim has been purchased by the Banfi family, which owns an important wine import company in New York and a famous winery and vineyard in Italy.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Randall Grahm in San Francisco

I met Randall recently in San Francisco while I was there to see Richard Wagner’s Ring der Nibelungen at the San Francisco Opera. Randall was accompanied by his wife and his daughter. His wife is Japanese and this explains there is a Geisha on the Pacific Rim label.

See more:
August Kesseler’s Pinot Noir and Richard Wagner’s Ring der Nibelungen in San Francisco, USA

Nicolas Quille

Nicolas Quille has accompanied the spin-off and eventual sale of Pacific Rim from beginning to the end. Nicolas joined Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz as General Manager in 2004 and initially managed the whole company, including Pacific Rim, but then focused on coordinating the spin-off of Pacific Rim and eventual sale to the Banfi family in 2010. He is now the General Manager and Winemaker for Pacific Rim winery. Nicolas came to the United States in 1997 and worked for J. Lohr and The Hogue Cellars.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Nicolas Quille in Oregon

I met Nicolas at the 1. Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium in Hillsboro near Portland (OR), where the headquarters of Pacific Rim is. We had lunch together and talked a lot about Pacific Rim.

See more:
Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro

Steven Sealock

Steven Sealock is the resident winemaker at Pacific Rim in Washington State. Steven told me that “as an Air Force brat, I lived in Germany for several years. Combine this with a German mother and you can begin to understand why Riesling has a special place in my heart. To me, Riesling and German beer is a normal accompaniment to a filling meal. So I jumped at the chance to work here at Pacific Rim, a great company dedicated to making world class Riesling.” Steven started his career in the wine industry at Columbia Winery.

Pictures: Christian Schiller with Steven Sealock at the Pacific Rim Winery

See more:
Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA

schiller-wine: Related Postings

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, (2) Eroica, (3) Woelffer and his Schiller Wine

The Wines of Abeja, Washington State

The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon

Visiting Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla, Washington State - Where Armin Diel’s Poet’s Leap Riesling is Made

Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA

August Kesseler’s Pinot Noir and Richard Wagner’s Ring der Nibelungen in San Francisco, USA

Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro

The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Giorgio Fragiacomo of Agricola Querciabella at Open Kitchen in Falls Church, Virginia

Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo was in town (Washington DC area) and presented his ultra-premium Querciabella wines at Open Kitchen in Falls Church, Virginia. Open Kitchen Culinary Director Christopher Carey had prepared Tuscan food to complement the wines.

Agricola Querciabella

From the Chianti Classico DOCG region in Tuscany, Agricola Querciabella has become known among wine lovers for taking the concept of premium wines to the extreme. Agricola Querciabella is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Second, Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.

Agricola Querciabella was founded in 1974 by Giuseppe Castiglioni, a wine connoisseur and fine wine collector from Milan, who had made a fortune in the construction business, including in Mexico. Giuseppe Castiglioni initially planted vines as a hobby, but soon set about authoring with his Camartina—the flagship wine of Querciabella - a Super-Tuscan success story.

Money was not an issue when Giuseppe Castiglioni bought a run down estate in the Greve region. His main concern was to make wines that could match with the fine French wines from Bordeaux and Bourgogne that he liked to drink so much. The shift to vegan biodynamic winemaking was engineered by his son, Sebastiano Castiglioni, who took over the management of the estate in the 1990s. Under Sebastiano Castiglioni leadership, the trend of perfection is still the utmost priority.

Pictures: At the Tasting at Open Kitchen in in Falls Church, Virginia

Only the best of everything is used, like stainless steel tanks with computer control, peristaltic pumps, 100% natural yeast and only the finest of the fine oak barrels. Quality is something that the Castiglionis do not compromise upon. Also, over time, they established an elite winemaking cadre, including winemaker Guido de Santi and famed consultant and Super-Tuscan specialist Giacomo Tachis.

Chemical–free viticulture was introduced at Querciabella  with the conversion to organics in 1988. This was followed by a transition to biodynamics in 2000. Today, Querciabella practices a farming and winemaking regime known  as cruelty–free biodynamics, which bars the use of animal–derived products from all phases of grape growing and winemaking.

With 74 hectares (183 acres) of prime Chianti Classico  vineyards – located in the municipalities of Greve, Panzano,  Radda and Gaiole – in addition to 32 hectares (79 acres) in  Maremma on Tuscany’s unspoiled Etruscan coast, Querciabella’ holdings represent the largest extensions of biodynamically  farmed (certified organic) vineyards in Italy, contributing extraordinary biodiversity to local and surrounding ecosystems  and serving as a sanctuary for thriving numbers of honeybee colonies.

Chianti, Chianti Classico and Sanghiovese

The Chianti region is split between Chianti and Chianti Classico. Accordingly, two separate DOCG designations apply to wines from the Chianti region: the Chianti Classico DOCG for the heartland of Chianti, and Chianti DOCG for all other Chianti regions.

Sangiovese is the signature grape of Chianti. The Sangiovese grape, like the Pino Noir, is not an easy grape variety, but has the potential of producing world class wines.

Since 2006, the use of white grape varieties such as Malvasia and Trebbiano has been prohibited in Chianti Classico. The share of Sangiovese can range from 80% to up to 100%, with the remainder either other native red grapes, like Canaiolo and Colorino, or international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Wines that do not comply with these rules – of which we tasted a number during the trip - cannot be sold as Chianti Classico.

Super Tuscans

In the 1970s, a class of wines that became known as Super Tuscans emerged. These wines were made outside DOC/DOCG regulations, but were of high quality and commanded high prices.

The Italian DOC/DOCG system is a highly specific set of production requirements that is designed to ensure a certain quality and taste corridor for all wines from a specific DOC or DOCG. It is amazing, how detailed the production requirements are for a wine to qualify as a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, for example. That the grapes come from the Brunello di Montalcion DOCG zone is just one of many requirements.

Pictures: Getting Ready - Open Kitchen Owner Hue-Chan Karels and Giorgio Fragiacomo

The advantage of such a detailed and rigid system is that consumers have a very good idea of what they get when they buy a bottle of wine, both in terms of taste and quality: No surprises, as the taste and quality range of Italian DOC/DOCG wines is rather narrow compared to other countries. But this may also be a disadvantage. If, as a winemaker, you want to experiment and try something new, you have to leave the DOC/DOCG system and sell your wine as a Vino da Tavola or as a Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) wine. And this is what a number of Tuscan wine producers did.

By the 1970s, the market for Chianti wines was suffering and the wines were widely perceived to be lacking quality. Chianti was typically associated with basic Chianti sold in a squat bottle enclosed in a straw basket, called a fiasco. In response, a group of ambitious producers began to experiment. Some of these producers wanted to make Chiantis that contained more Sangiovese than allowed. Others wanted less Sangiovese and experiment with blending French grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Many did not want to be required to blend in any white grape varieties. Thus, the late twentieth century saw a flurry of creativity and innovation in the Chianti zones as producers experimented with new grape varieties and introduced modern wine-making techniques such as the use of new oak barrels. These wines became known as Super Tuscans, had to be classified as a Vino da Tavola or as IGT wine, while the prices and wine ratings of Super Tuscans would often eclipse those of the DOCG Chiantis.

See more:
Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy

Agricola Querciabella Portfolio

Agricola Querciabella produces four wines from its vineyards located in the  Chianti Classico zone: Batàr, a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay;  Camartina, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese; Palafreno,  a monovarietal Merlot; and Querciabella, a Chianti Classico DOCG  made of 100% Sangiovese. From the vineyards in coastal Maremma, Querciabella produces  Mongrana, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Pictures: Giorgio Fragiacomo and his Querciabella Wines

Camartina—the flagship of Querciabella—was Castiglioni’s first contribution to the Super-Tuscan movement. Camartina continues to be a defining example of the Super-Tuscan genre. While Sangiovese was the predominant varietal for the greater part of Camartina’s early career, the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has increased gradually over the years, with recent vintages favoring Cabernet.

Batàr is Querciabella’s high-level Tuscan white, inspired by the white grand cru wines of the Bourgogne. Initially, Batàr was a Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio blend. Today, it is a 50/50 Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay blend.  Its stylistic orientation altered with the 1998 vintage, when the use of new oak was reduced, bringing Batàr within much closer range of its Burgundian archetype.

The portfolio’s penultimate wine, Palafreno, is monovarietal Merlot, debuting with the 2000 vintage. Its vinification regimen entails a fairly lengthy maceration period of 18 days and aging in 100 percent French oak (60% new and 40% first passage) for approximately 18 months.

The Wines we Tasted

Querciabella Mongrana Maremma Toscana IGT 2009

Sangiovese (50%); Merlot (25%);  Cabernet Sauvignon (25%).
Biodynamic (since first planting, 1997).
130,000 bottles

Bright red fruit and cherry give the wine a lively, cheerful personality and the wine's structure is perfectly balanced and smooth.  Market $31

Querciabella Camartina Toscana IGT 2008

Cabernet Sauvignon (70%); Sangiovese (30%).
Biodynamic since 2000; organic since 1988.
15,000 bottles
First vintage: 1981.   Camartina is made and released only if the vintage
 reaches a very high quality level. Camartina was not  produced in 1989, 1992, 1998 and 2002.

Dark fruit, spices, leather and tobacco are some of the aromas and flavors that take shape in the glass. Mineral notes appear later to frame the long, vibrant finish.  Market $165

Pictures: Charlos pouring Querciabella Camartina Toscana IGT 2008

Querciabella Chianti Classico Chianti Classico DOCG 2008

Sangiovese (95%); Cabernet Sauvignon (5%).
Biodynamic since 2000; organic since 1988.
100,000 bottles
First vintage: 1974

Beautifully delineated with a crystalline finish, this Chianti Classico is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep red-ruby. Balsamic black plum, sweet milk chocolate and coffee liquor aromas on the captivating, mineral-accented nose.  Market $43

Querciabella Batàr Toscana IGT 2009

Chardonnay (50%); Pinot Blanc (50%).
Biodynamic since 2000; organic since 1988.
5,000 bottles
First vintage: 1988

Picture: Giorgio Fragiacomo pouring Querciabella Batàr IGT 2008

Opens with a beautifully intense bouquet of vanilla bean, peach cobbler and citrus mousse. White almond and toasted spice make for rich accents on the long fresh finish.  Market $97

Giorgio Fragiacomo

Giorgio Fragiacomo is a wine adventurer who hails from North Eastern Italy but grew up in Australia. A combination that led to his acquiring the simultaneous passions for yachting, fine wine and fine art (in which he has a degree from the University of Sydney) from a tender age.

After spending too long in the wrong career, he has now corrected his course and has been navigating the treacherous but exciting waters of the fine wine world for over a decade. Giorgio effortlessly earned his WSET Diploma with top marks, and is a qualified professional sommelier. He has worked in wine journalism as well as sales and marketing for leading wineries of the Piemonte, Veneto and Toscana. He currently steers the export sales of Querciabella.

Open Kitchen

Open Kitchen is owned by Hue-Chan and John Karels. "Our Mission" Hue-Chan says "is to create a unique culinary gathering space that celebrates the kitchen and the table as centers of pleasure and community. Open Kitchen is…

A full-service bistro that honors the farm-to-table spirit with seasonally, ingredient-driven menu of handmade, comfort food, using fresh, local and sustainable products as much as possible.

Picture: Giorgio Fragiacomo, Hue-Chan Karels and Open Kitchen Culinary Director Christopher Carey

An intimate, fully-equipped, commercial kitchen facility and dining space offering custom-designed, interactive, and engaging private events for business and social gatherings, life celebrations, and chef-instructed, design-your-own cooking classes.

A gourmet market and wine boutique that reflects our philosophy that there is a magical relationship between wines, foods, and human connections. An evolving concept that includes Open Kitchen’s newly launched Wine Club featuring weekly wine tastings, seasonal wine dinners, wine reward program, and wine shop with gourmet snacks and nibbles.

Amid the noise and haste of modern living, Open Kitchen aspirse to provide guests with a culinary retreat for gracious living…a place to relax, unwind and share in the joy of food, wine, and community."

Pictures: Open Kitchen

As its name suggests, the space is pretty much open, with the meal preparation going on in front of your eyes, especially if you snag a counter seat.

The decor of Open Kitchen is modern. When you enter the place, you see the "open kitchen" with the Chef and his team at work. The kitchen is surrounded by a large wooden bar. You have the option to sit at the bar, the dining bistro area, which includes pub style butcher block tables or the fully covered patio.

See more:
A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA
Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA

Special Taste of Tuscany Menu

Open Kitchen Culinary Director Christopher Carey prepared Tuscan food to go with the wines:

Fava Bean Crostini with Fresh Mint & Pecorino Shavings (V)

Chicken Liver Crostini

Grilled Lamb Meatballs with Shaved Fennel, Lemon Juice & Cold-Pressed Olive Oil

Pappardelle with Porcini Ragù (V)

Bistecca alla Fiorentina with Arugula & Shaved Parmesan (GF)

Bruschetta Prosciutto with Marinated Artichokes, Arugula & Shaved Parmesan

Spring Lemon Risotto with Asparagus & Peas (V, GF)

Panzanella (V)

Zabaglione with Vin Santo & Spring Berries

Chocolate Amaretto Tartlette

schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

The Up and Coming Premium Sparklers of Franciacorta (#EWBC), Italy

An Apero at Zucca in Galleria in Milano, Italy

Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy

Dining and Wining where the Royals Eat: Dario Cecchini’s Solo Cicca Restaurant in Panzano – the Butcher of Chianti Classico

Meeting Wine Maker Paolo Cianferoni at his Caparsa Estate in Chianti Classico, Italy

Wining and Dining at Badia a Coltibuono in Tuscany with Wine Makers and Owners Roberto and Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, Italy

Extraordinary Art and Wines at Castello di Ama in Chianti Classico, Italy

Tasting Wines where Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa was Born – With Wine Maker and General Manager Francesco Nardi at Vignamaggio Estate in Chianti Classico, Italy

Visiting Barone Francesco Ricasoli and his Castello di Brolio in Chianti Classico, Italy

Kobrand’s Impressive Tour d'Italia 2011 in Washington DC, USA

A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA

Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA